Week 7 Hattusha, to Kaya Camping, Urgup, then Konya

Monday 13th June 2011 To get to Hattusha, it was just down the road, turn left and up to the entrance. 5TL to get in, I had already bought a guide book and read most of it at the hotel for 20TL, 10TL cheaper than this shop. Another guide book for Corma which was at least 85 km north. The first temple I came to had the inevitable guides/selling stuff. They just wont leave you alone, even if you say no, very politely. I just left this bit after finding the green stone, the water trough and a few other things, I'd got cross again. Weariness showing up my lack of tolerance. The next exhibit also produced a few guides, quite as persistent as the other's too. One guide said he had been part of the original dig and would have been quite interesting if he hadn't kept trying to sell me so much stuff. I can't get another thing in my motorhome, or I will be well and truly overweight, and I don't want any fines, thank you. After this encounter, there were no more guides until a taxi driver way laid me as I went back to my van. He tried to get me to go to Corma, only 40 km said he! The weather was very cloudy but it was quite good not having to get too hot as I climbed some of the digs. I kept marvelling at a civilization so many thousands of years old putting all this together, even water systems and sewerage! I very much enjoyed my time here. I was now 1.30pm time to head off. Programmed TT, looked a quite straightforward route, straight down to my next site, Urgup and the Cappadocian scenery. At one point in this tour at Yerapi, the embankment it was 4,205 ft and another 100ft at the very top. GPS N40-00.398 E34-36.990 (Garmin).

Some of the buildings at Hattusha

Everything started off quite well. I tried to get a map because I suddenly realised I was off my maps and I hadn't really planned this part of the journey at all, just decided to go clockwise on impulse. That's me. I stopped in Yogazat and all I could get was a biscuit advertising map, but I had to get the magnifying glass to read it! I started out along the dual carriage way and TT asked me to turn left. No there were road works and no left turn to be seen. Would go at the next one. TT seemed to be OK until it asked me to go left again up a dirt road. Having got stuck in the mud the other evening I was not doing that. I went forward, turned round, turned round again and then did another 50 km on top of the 193 km I should have done because I felt I was going round in circles. However, the scenery was absolutely amazing, couldn't have asked for better. But the rain came down again. I tried to see where I was on my small map but no, only knew at one point I was near Boztepe 34 km so headed for that. Time again was marching on! I stopped at N39-22-21 E34-32-29 and one day I might find on a map exactly where that was in relation to where I should have been. Later at the camp site, I saw a map which the Dutch people had and indeed the route they were taking to go north, was just straight up. Good map which obviously I should have had.

I encountered a village where there was a river running down the side of the road. I looked to the end of the road and all I could see was water. Did I go through. Well I kept to what I thought was shallow water and then crossed because I was told to go left, down the link road. Everything OK, no big holes, or no road, like in Morocco. Thank goodness for that. However, I arrived, having seen some rock houses, caves, eroded countryside at Arvanos, at the camp site at 8.15pm. I apologised for being late and I would enquire about things in the morning, very grateful that I'd arrived in one piece, yet again. 33993 mileage 179 miles to do 193 kms 33 mph

Tuesday 14th June 2011 Kaya Camping Urgup N38-38-12 E34-51-15

I awoke next morning refreshed but decided to move position to look over the rather splendid scenery eroded over the millions of years, to have a day of looking and resting. I liked this place. For 24TL I could have a good show, company, electric very good scenery and catch up with washing, although in the end I did hand washing waiting for the washing machine, saved myself 10TL, bit expensive for a wash I thought, especially when the machine's were so noisy, their bearings really wearing out.

Wednesday 15th June 2011 I woke to look outside and see at least 50 hot air balloons flying across the valley. What a sight, pity it was a bit murky but absolutely breathtaking, I followed what was happening with binoculars and photos for about an hour. I met New Zealander David who had brought his bike by air and was travelling around, but Syria had closed its border, so he had another 4 weeks to go to round Turkey. Unfortunately he'd got flooded out the previous day and it was time to dry everything out. Today was a good day for that. We had some really interesting conversations, he was delighted to find out I actually had been to NZ four times. There was a lot of frivolity from the Dutch playing 60's/70's music and some dancing in their circle of chairs too. I was invited but Dave came for a chat, so I did that instead. The Camp Manager, a very funny Turkish gentleman, will find out his name later, said I could go to most places by bus and gave me a map with all the directions on it. There were lots of jokes going around, started by 'Ahmet' that I was a very very rich lady and he was trying to get me off with my rich NZ friend and why wouldn't I share my van with him, especially if it rained again. I asked how easy it was to do shopping, what time did they close, 10pm apparently, so I've got time to go when it's a bit cooler. 'Ahmet' said he was going by bus in the morning. When I actually woke again to 50 balloons flying over the valley again, at least today they had sun shine, I still felt somewhat shattered and decided that I wouldn't go by bus. About 1020 along came 'Ahmet' waving a bunch of keys at me. I apologised I had changed my mind, and he said what a pity, "I have car and you can drive". Well, No, don't think so. I did feel mean but, insurance, what time, where was he going etc. He hurried off, but I'll have a word later to explain just not up to rushing about with someone else. It must sound like I'm a stick in the mud but if I don't have the energy, I don't have it, just can't magic it up!

Thursday 16th June 2011 David and all the Dutch people were going on today, all to Bogazkale, know that place, by the route I should have come by! I have been sitting here since 8am typing these last 14 days because I just hadn't done any notes. Will have to fill in if I've missed anything. It's now 1230 and I've had enough typing, need a rest! Glad I sat and typed that morning. Dutch left and camp site now very empty Belgian's still here, like their number plate APH 456 (my maiden name initials), they wouldn't part with it. Their two Yorkie terrier dogs still yapping at the cat and any unrecognised visitors. About 10.30am Camp manager came down to say he was ready to go, he had borrowed a car and I could drive. Many apologies but I had decided not to go out this morning. Funnily enough he hasn't been near me since, well if that's how he takes a rejection, I feel sorry for him, it's OK when there's flirting and joking, but if they don't get their way, "Coventry", I know all about that one. Later that day another English van arrived.

Friday,17th June 2011 Morning came and the English van came down and parked near me. Frans, Dutch by birth, NZ brought up, Cynthia, Tasmanian born, married Frans 34 years ago. Based in Harrow, Middx but have done lots of touring both caravan and motorhome. Take ferries to lots of places. Simply because it was cheaper than driving. Might try that sometime. But the sea and me! Showed me some magic photos of Sicily and old buildings, all there apart from roofs.

Frans and Cynthia asked if I'd like to go for a walk nearly 6 miles (and it felt like it) into Red Rose Valley. Amazing, met Turkish lady trying to sell us dried fruit and nuts. She and her husband had been in Germany for 7 years, earnt enough money to come back and start off her little market garden enterprise. Cynthia bought some apricots and we ventured further down the valley. Another shop, this time mostly nuts about 3L a packet; they let you try lots of things even if you didn't buy. Wending our way through narrow paths, under and through the rocks, quite wet in places with a stream running through. You could see where the rocks had broken, or actually been power hammered down by the burn marks in the rock. Up iron ladders, steps chiselled into the rocks, some, you just scrambled up, or down. Variety of pigeon coups, windows, doors in the rocks, some walled up, some paintings, a few looked too new to me and I said so. OK, but in that sunlight nothing would have lasted 2000 years to that degree! No ladders up to the holes in the rock, I think most of the entrances were behind the rocks and we just couldn't see them. Another café, where we had some apple tea, 1L each. Toilets available, squats, but there is obviously a sewerage pipe running through, this is the 3rd one I've seen. They can get their cars down here, they can dig canals for pipes.
We then met up with 2 Aussie girls and a French guide, or so we thought. The girls were students, one having done an exchange year in Edinburgh, the other girl was speaking French to the Turkish guy who paints in Paris for eight months of the year and lives with his wife; the other four months he spends in Cappadocia looking for old churches and guiding young females around. A guy's life! Hope the wife is enjoying herself and not just keeping the income coming in! However, he took us to what he said he discovered 25 years ago. The path was down a precarious ladder, across a small valley, then up a narrow ledge to the church. Inside it was lovely and cool, ceilings about 20 ft high, columns, small windows, made to look like pigeon coups, blackened pigeon scoops in walls with candle smoke on the higher arch. Christians who come to pray with candles. Amazing. They think it was Byzantine, but not officially recognised as yet. Someone had apparently blocked it off at one time, and he, unblocked it. I'm glad he did. However as you go outside you must be careful of the protruding rock to your left, as a German had hit his head on it, toppled and fell down the quite deep valley about 30 ft and really hurt himself.

From here, they said we could go to another church, however we decided we'd had enough it was getting hot and we had walked a considerable way. He just said turn right and just follow the valley down, which we did. Met others who didn't know the way, it wasn't very well sign posted and you could get lost. Some red paint markings on the walls said Red Valley this way, and in fact it was completely the opposite way! We found another shop, fridge without power, made it through the previous shops, then hit the long hill upwards. I just let the other two mountain goats go and found them sitting quite near the top of the hill under the shade. When I was rested, we then walked only about 50m to the camp site entrance, grabbed a cooling shower and proceeded to have a well deserved rest. We had done 11543 steps, 5.7 miles, amazing, I did it.

Saturday 18th June 2011 Whilst the Antipodeans were out ballooning, I walked down to Goreme to get some food shopping. All I could find was tourist shops. I did eventually find a vegetable shop which cost me 11.5TL. A good bread shop about 6 rolls with seeds done in the shape of a flower. I tried to ask several times for the bus back to Kaya Camping, eventually someone said if I hurry it would be arriving down at the crossroads in about 5/10 minutes.

I got there and there were several people going to Avanos, that bus came, then I spied a couple standing a bit further up and they were here for their 5th visit and said the bus would come soon and go to Urgup. By the time I got back, I was shattered again. So after 3 hours sleep I emerged to talk to Frans about camp sites in Bulgaria and Romania. The German chap next door joined us because he was going that way too. I told them about the English lady who felt that she had been sprayed with Chlorine and was made very sick at the Turkish/Bulgarian border, something to do with foot and mouth disease. Suggested they could go through Greece and up into Bulgaria to avoid this, if it was in fact true. Sat and had my dinner with Eric and Dave from the motorbike Panther Club. Eric lived in France and had a gîte, as well as his farmhouse etc. He was a builder by trade. Dave didn't say a lot, and I don't know what he did. Had a lovely chat with NZ couple that evening, we were all thinking of leaving the next morning. Again, camp manager just ignored me.

Sunday, 19th June 2011 Paid up, 144TL 6 nights, had good wifi connections, good swimming pool, but didn't actually go in it. Good showers, kitchen, washing, laundry facilities, but I don't think their machines will last much longer, terrible noise. German couple had gone ballooning, so couldn't say goodbye. Tried to get Sally on Skype but it wouldn't let me, so she said it was £1.30 to ring me. It was only 40p to ring her so I did. (I found out later that I was wrong, she was right.) She was going to Si and Kate's and the girls later on because it was Father's Day. Their Dad was doing something else. I got a rude awakening later. I had been getting texts relating to Turkish phones, that is calls within Turkey 40p minute and 10p texts, so speaking to Sally was rather costly. Still couldn't get on with Skype! Left early 33993 miles 959.3 miles. 33 mph 28.38 hrs

Left to see underground city at Kaymakli, however it was quite a roundabout route and I didn't find it, no signs nothing. OK so on to Derinkuyu, very big underground city, however, I didn't really want to go in there, too many tourists. So I thought ok Ihlara Valley, go there. Nice route, sun out, no rain and I got to a place called Gaziemir. There was a sign "The biggest Underground city" so I followed it, parked and was immediately sought out by the guide. His name was Kadir, and he started off by being a very charming man and then asked for a kiss, ok just don't go there. It was a very interesting city, about 900 years old, originally one big place, but because the tunnel ran under the road they blocked it up and made two separate entrances.

Did forget my camera, however leaflet shows you main things. After our look around the place, lots of other people came in but I was privileged, but only because he then proceeded to tell me, he was nothing without a woman, his wife had died 5 years previously, he smoked because he was alone. He had one son and two daughters. The son helped in his carpet/antique shop and the girls were at University/College doing administration degrees. I was invited to dinner, his shop, his house, but I declined, he was far too needy for me and of course it would never work, I'm not leaving my family to live there. Just out of interest I went to Guzelyurt to see what it was all about. I had lunch in a rather convenient lay-by as the heavens opened. There was an attractive lake in the valley, several modern houses and little farms. The police pulled in to the lay-by just for a look see. Two ladies had to leave their field rather quickly because of the rain. I started up the hill, some renovations were taking place but it was a very old town by the look of it. I saw Kadir's adverts at the side of the road too. I kept going to the top of the hill, all the men, as usual, drinking coffee or whatever and no women about, all in doors. I remember I was wearing shorts in his office and just said I would like a pair of those baggy pants the ladies wore, and Kadir said I would look better in them! OK, wasn't too impressed by the village, apparently it's got a heritage tag on it, so all buildings have to be in local stone. The whole place looked a bit of a mess, hopefully they will sort it out. So down the hill, explored that, however there was a lot more in the valley, but the rain put me off that. I went to Ihlara Valley, ventured down a very steep hill into the gorge, hopefully got a few good pictures. Hoped that I could get up the other side and kept going now towards Aksaray. Just a town here and no camp sites.

Sunday evening, I decided to go on to Sultanhani because I had a GPS for that one. Well, saw the sign, couldn't cross the dual carriageway because it was too narrow for me, went up to the roundabout further on, turned left and picked up GPS to site. Well, it wasn't where it should have been, GPS wrong again. I was sitting there, tired and thinking of going somewhere else, when a young boy on a scooter gave me a card of the camp site, I asked "where is it", he said "No problem" and vanished! The correct GPS is N38-14-55 E33-33-28 not the one in the Reisemobil book. Also mobile phone number is 0090 5382352404.

Then along came another, rather handsome lad, older, same question, he proceeded to phone someone, gave me the phone, and within the next few minutes I was following the lad back to the site. Obviously the GPS co-ords were wrong. It was a lovely place, restaurant, met by Ahmet Aytac, another carpet shop, how unique. Taken into back field, parked up, had shower and changed because I said I would go for dinner that evening which I was to be charge 20TL, camp site 20TL too. So 1900 came; I had soup, cucumber, tomato, shredded lettuce, onions and oil, large amount of bread on plate and I had a glass of red wine. It was quite nice, forgot to ask how much? Main meal arrived sliced green beans with small pieces of meat, in a delicious sauce, however the rice was cold, bit funny that. Had melon for desert with some apricots, but they were not ripe so I couldn't eat them. After dinner the inevitable cup of chai and tour round the carpet store. His wife was away with family, his mother, sister, and others ran a co-operative in the town. His wife knitted very colourful socks and gloves because it's very cold there in the winter. He showed me carpets, kilims, silk carpets and small prayer rugs, all £100's. So sorry no, can't take anything else in my van, too much weight. He was a bit disappointed, however he asked me for breakfast, on him!!! in the morning, in case I changed my mind about the carpets. No such luck!