Monday 13 February 2012

Week 6 Istanbul, European Turkey crossing over into Asian Turkey with Insurance! To Ankara, Museum of Anatolian Civilizations and Hattusha

Monday 6th June Mistic Camping Next day I rested, tried to have a sunbathe, until a lot of French vans started to drive into the very small site. I'd decided by this time that I was leaving to go to Fisherman's Wharf the next day and quickly got my van out of the way of the French vans so that I didn't get hemmed in. They thought I had a big problem, no, just wanted to be able to exit quickly in the morning and not be held up by anything, I couldn't get away quickly enough.

Inside Hagia Sofya

Tuesday 7th June 2011 Kilyos mileage 33332 31 mph 9.20 hrs. Fisherman's Wharf, Istanbul. N41-00-05 E28-58-38  As it turned out I was up by 0700, ready within 20 minutes and a coach parked right across the road to take, who else, but the French into Istanbul. Well good luck, but I was going first! Everything went well, until I hit the traffic, just got into the mood like everybody else heading towards the city. I hit Kennedy Caddisi about 8.30, went up to the roundabout about 2 km from the Wharf car park and then turned left towards it. Blast, missed the entrance to the car park, obviously couldn't reverse, silly me, so had to go forward and find somewhere to turn round. About 5 miles later I had returned to park up and breathe a sigh of relief. Arrived here 33366 miles, 331.5 miles 29 mpg. 11.09 hrs. (34.2 miles from Kilyos including the missed turning.) N41-00-05 E28-58-38. The car park was plenty big enough for lots of vans. I was given 3 tickets the first day for my 30TL, but they just took my money after that without issuing any tickets, so I just accepted it. As long as nobody decided to ask for more money, as the gate attendants changed every day, I don't think I saw the same guy twice.  
Hagia Sofya
Parked next to a Swiss couple who had obviously gone out for the day, but did say hello later. Today the Palace was shut so I walked up the road to do the Basilica Cistern. 10 TL to get in and it was huge, a lot bigger than the one I'd seen in Morocco. As I approached the audio station I dropped my camera. Batteries flying, and one plopped down into the grating and was lost forever. Fortunately I had other batteries but it was a rechargeable one! Camera still worked fortunately. Lots of young girls looking today, not so many tourists, it was quite early. From here I decided to go to the Suleymaniye Mosque. Tourist Info said to get a tram to Eminonu and then walk, as if I went left I would have to go through many streets in the Grand Bazaar and probably get lost. He said it was much easier. Well it was, still an uphill trek. Wasn't wearing the right shoes though. When I arrived at the Suleymaniye Mosque there was hardly anyone in there. What a peaceful time I had, able to sit on the floor and just drink in its magnificence. Wonderful. Walked out and went into a nearby restaurant, was invited to go and have a look at what was cooking. Decided on some chicken stew and rice. When it came with 4 great big pieces of bread, water and the chicken arrived, but no rice. It then came and the whole meal was really delicious. Couldn't eat all the bread, just 2 pieces, which I noticed everyone else dipped into their gravy. Lovely meal and only 11.5TL, so I gave them 13, as the tip wasn't included. Didn't know whether that was enough or not. Walked back down to the van to enjoy the evening. It was a bit noisy, but nothing like the other night.
Inside Suleymaniye Mosque
Wednesday 8th June 2011 Next morning, again a lovely day, decided to go to the Palace for 20TL. Didn't do audio, probably should have, another 10TL. Lots of tourists here, queues to get in the Treasury, so I decided to go anticlockwise where it was a bit quieter. Looked at the menu for the Restaurant, decided it was too expensive £10 to light salad with meat! Went back up the stairs and haggled with myself as to whether I did the harem or not. Well there was a little café, a yoghurt drink and a roll, 6TL, great. Harem 15TL, but it was well worth it. I'm glad I went in it was very interesting.



Entrance to the Palace

One good reason not to go during the tourist season!
Again back to the van after a long day. Tonight there was a lot of loud music but it didn't affect me fortunately. I had decided to go and get my Asian Turkey insurance today from the TTOK offices. I had 2 addresses in my guide book. I picked one, got directions, walked up to Sultanahmet for the tram to Kabatas, metro train to Taksim then Metro to 4 Levent, thinking this was the right address. Well no, braved several wrong directions from people and TT, arrived at the assigned Caddesi, very perplexed because there were only cafés here. Nobody knew where to go until someone in the taxi rank said yes I know where you want to go. Thank goodness only a 10TL ride about 15 minutes away. Well it was the address I didn't choose. One person out of many knew the correct address, one has to be persistent!   

The address for the Turkish Touring Organisation is, Oto Sanayi Sitesi Yani 1, Seyrantepe Yolku, IV Levent, Istanbul: telephone number 0212 282 8140 www turing.org.tr. I got the name from an AA Internet information sheet, but it didn't give the address. There were 2 in my DK travel book, one of which was completely wrong! 
Beautiful gardens


So much for intuition however, I realised when I spoke to them on the phone at the Tourist Office I didn't exactly ask which address they were at! The gates to the Touring offices were guarded, it didn't say TTOK but there you go, taxi fare was only 6.45TL gave him 10TL and told him to keep the change. At least he found it for me. I could actually have braved the traffic and driven there on my way out of Istanbul, but there you go. Inside the offices a young gentleman took over for me, couldn't understand why I didn't have a personal Turkish address, they put down the office address. 
Istanbul Street








The young man took my English phone number without the first 0 because the computer wouldn't take it. Originally they had told me it was 36TL which I thought was a bit cheap. Anyway it turned out that obviously a motorhome was a bit more to insure than a car and it turned out to be 120.45TL for two months. Oh well, about £60 so I went for it. I said I thought 36TL was a bit cheap, much confusion because he didn't understand what I said, lead to a long conversation with the young lady who could speak a little English. Anyway we got there in the end, I wasn't complaining.

The young lady told me how to get back to the Metro, just simply by walking up to the main road on the left side, adjacent with the dual carriage way, found the Metro which was Seyrantepe, paid my 1.75TL to the station where I could get the Nostalgic Tram. Once out in the square I couldn't for the life of me see the tram stop, stopped two ladies who laughed and pointed across the street to the tram overhead lines and straight ahead. We all laughed and went on our way. I must say I prefer asking directions from ladies, they give you the right ones! Took another tram back to Sultanahmet, walked down to the Wharf, after yet another exhausting excursion, still I was seeing a lot of Istanbul. Diesel at 33510 28.8 mpg 32 mph

Friday 10th June 2011 Today I was going to Akcakora, Hamburg Camping about 255km from Istanbul, so started quite early got on the motorway, crossed the bridge to the Asian side, now I was legal, used my toll card twice until I didn't have any more left. Got out of the van because I had to buy another ticket. This time they charged me 50TL for KGS toll card. Didn't have to pay any till I turned off for Akcakora 8.75TL. Got on the road to the camp site, full of potholes just couldn't face it. Turned round and went and found a supermarket which was closed because if was after 1pm, prayer time.
Me stuck in the mud and the Esenboga Hotel set back from the dual carriageway
Bought a dirty great loaf for 3TL I'm still having chunks off it now Thursday 16th June. Supermarket opened and did some shopping in there. Food didn't seem too expensive to me. Decided to go to Ankara, there were two stops both at hotels, but decided to go to Esenboga Airport Hotel as it was in the north and therefore not so far to travel. Well the next part of the journey turned into storms yet again. My, they do have some rain out here no wonder the land is so green.
I found the hotel because I knew roughly where it was. N40-04-26 E32-56-24. Turned to get on the other side of the dual carriageway, and proceeded to drive towards the hotel. Well I didn't go the right way did I? Decided to go across a bit of a muddy patch and all of a sudden I couldn't go anywhere. Got out, up to my knees in mud, walked, waded to the reception. All the hotel management staff had come out and were laughing, good job I was laughing too, through embarrassment! They were lovely, rushing around trying to find out who the bulldozer driver was and going off to fetch him. Was given some Chai, very sweet and lemony, decided it was the powdered stuff, yet very nice. Had two young ladies who were management, entertain me until the driver arrived. Well, what a commotion, they tried to take out my towing bolt, but I saved the day and took my D lock off my generator, threaded it through the towing bolt and we put the bulldozer's tow band through that. Hey presto, all set, steering lock off and ready to go. As usual, no sedate towing, just wham, and off the mud I came. Many thanks all round, mud everywhere in the van. I was taken behind the hotel and washed down, me and the van! Very entertaining episode.
The ladies kept telling me about the sauna, steam room and swimming pool, which I could use and was included in the 19€ nightly fee. I did indulge in the swimming pool and Turkish bath; however the latter was a bit hot for me, so the attendant put down a towel on the marble and threw the hot water over that. I didn't really expect the marble to be quite so hot, but that's what probably kept me awake it certainly didn't make me sleepy. Unfortunately, my excitement or whatever, kept me awake most of the night so I was reading it seemed, for hours, and guess what there was a teenage disco going on too, which didn't help. Well, I was warm and cosy, so it didn't really matter.
Sunday 11th June 2011 Today I was going into Ankara to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations by bus. I walked down to the bus stop which was to the left of the hotel, a young man with a small child stepped quickly forward to hail the bus 487. Standing room only, but again only 1.75TL. Good this. Put me off at a traffic lights about 30 minutes later and told to walk up to my left. So OK, but forgot to ask where I got on the bus to go back! Weather was getting hot again so I started my walk, didn't know how far, but just followed the brown signs to the Museum. When I got up a steep hill there was a large car park in my left, I approached them and was told to go up the steps. This I duly entertained until I could go no further and sat down on the wall to recuperate.

Bad move. This young man was struggling up the hill, hand on heart, got to me, said he was Muhammed, sat down beside me, promptly put his arm round my shoulders and started jabbering on. Where was I going etc. Well I got a bit narked to say the least, knew this from Morocco, the man just wouldn't leave me alone, wanted to show me where to go. I changed my mind about the museum and walked up the steps towards the castle. Well, when I turned round having decided not to venture any further, there he was standing there in front of me, having back tracked because I didn't go to the Museum. This time I wasn't polite - Just leave me alone thank you, I just want to be on my own!
I did get to the Museum without any further annoyance. I bought my ticket 20TL and audio 5TL and set about touring the museum. It was so interesting, I spent nearly 4 hours in there. Some places to sit, but all those steps and the incident had seriously upset my back and I was aching, something I hadn't experienced for years. The Museum had won the European Museum of the Year award and I must say it was beautifully laid out and well signed in English. I walked out of the Museum, straight ahead of me were some steps going down and I turned right and followed the road back to the original car park. This was a much better route and avoided all those steps, and any young man who tried to way lay me!
I crossed over the road where there was a series of metal frames preventing you from falling down into the excavations below. No a single notice telling you what it was, and I couldn't find out either. Shame. Crossed back to the other side in the shade and found a lovely Kebab café. Chicken kebab 2.75TL and drink 1.50TL; it was delicious, apart from the green peppers which I quickly discarded. The young lady even cut my roll in half for me because it was so big. I was offered a doggy bag half way through because they thought I had finished. Well I needed that other half, my energy was flagging, especially when the election van came round with its loud speakers up to full volume. I just had to put my hands over my ears, it hurt. The chefs all laughed, and I did too, but I kept my hands there. Back at the bus station, I couldn't find any reference to Culuk where the hotel was. I tried several chaps to see if they could help and then one elderly man said I show you. So I walked up the street with him and I spied a bus with the number 487 going away from me. We crossed the road, a bus was at the traffic lights, he asked for airport hotel, "Yes" I promptly got on; said “goodbye and thanks” and the bus took off, round to the right, lots of Turkish talk, laughing, turned round in the road and up to the bus stop where I should have got on. They took my money, took on other people and then we proceeded to go back on route. Well, they picked up people, not at bus stops, actually honked the horn to tell people the bus had arrived, some really bad driving and then I think the driver's wife and daughter got on, and she decided to sit beside me. I thought perhaps his driving would improve. Wrong. Anyway we made it, I saw the hotel across the road, he dropped me near the pedestrian staircase, because I was not going to negotiate 4 lanes of Turkish traffic down that stretch of road! Back at the van I quickly ate a small sandwich, the kebab really having filled me, but it was a few hours ago. Was going to have another swim, it started to rain so I didn't go. Tucked myself in bed and read, falling asleep very quickly.
Sunday, 12th June 2011 Mileage 33676, 33793 Diesel 163TL Next stop Bogazkale, Baskent Hotel. N40-01-42 E34-37-09
I was now driving towards the old Hittite city of Bogazkale and TT took me straight there, good journey, some rain again, but wide roads, with a bit extra tarmac thrown in, you just had to distinguish which bit to drive on! Arrived at the Hotel and was greeted by a gentleman, shook hands and said the Chef would be out soon to show me to my camp site. He came out, I unfortunately took an immediate dislike to him. I parked, told it was 20TL, good price, good pitches, toilets/showers bit dated and not cleaned straight away. Suddenly there were 3 men taking care of that job. As my back still ached, I wasn't going anywhere, just to have a rest. There was a knock at the door the Chef was standing there asking if I'd like some chai, I politely said I would come later, but he kept hanging around trying to make conversation, he spoke German, I didn't.
He eventually went, I shut the door, settled down for a nap! Ha Ha! four voices got increasing louder all arguing about something outside. I eventually opened the door, no sleep to find them discussing the hot water system right outside my door. Well I do pick my spots. I don't think people on this part of the planet know what it's like to have a quiet conversation. I got out and had a look round; the scenery was fantastic. I found where the Hittite city was and interestingly enough I could actually drive round it. That was the next morning.

Later a German couple arrived in a VW van, they made their way up to the café. I thought this was a good time to go with them and have chai. The Chef/owner was I felt a very lonely man and just wanted conversation, would have done anything to get that. I felt a bit awkward and guilty but when I'm tired, don't ask me for conversation.
The Green Stone on the archeological site
I think coming to Turkey was a culture shock, very noisy, vibrant, but a bit too much for my system, and I've been suffering. However, I was determined to travel on till I found somewhere I could just chill out. The German couple were very interesting, couldn't be more helpful, gave me some good information as to where they had been. Left Bashkent Camp Site 33814 mileage 35 mph, 21.42 hours travelling at 3,520 ft above sea level.
Two vans, the only occupants


 


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