19th week Back to mainland Rafina, Meteora Monasteries

I decided to leave on Thursday 8th September. I patched up the wiring loom at the back of the van, put a carpet cladding over the top and ascended the hill towards the church. It was the second gulley that actually caught the back and although the carpet was a bit roughened up, everything else was OK. We patched up the rear bumper with sellotape, again; checked the lights were working OK and went on to Gavrion to catch the ferry. John was on his 600cc 4wheel drive Giros! We'd emptied all the water out of the van before ascending the hill, so when we got to Gavrion, John proceeded to attach the hose pipe to the sea front spring water outlet, so I had water for the journey. It wasn't as windy today. I tried 4 ferry boat shops before finding the right one with a credit card machine! 92.50€ back to Rafina. Having said goodbye to John, we then met Sam, Grecian vet from the island going to Volos for a holiday and then back to do the donkey charity work. I had a long wait, practically the last one on the ferry and I had to reverse on too! Which meant that I only had the sheep lorry in front of me. Parked, locked up and ascended the stairs. There leaning over the balcony of the ship was Sheila the vicar from Batsi returning home via Manchester to Cannock. We chatted, had coffee and the journey went very quickly.

Looking at John & Sara's house from the road up to the Church

When it was time to go down to the van, the stair way was chaotic. I wondered whether I would make the van on time, so other people didn't have to wait for me. The passengers fled off the boat as quickly as they could. Fortunately they didn't push down the stairs, I said goodbye quickly to Sheila who went to retrieve her luggage. As I drove off the boat she was waving at me. As my van was more or less, on the weight limit, I didn't offer her a lift but I suddenly felt rather guilty. I parked up and went back to look for her, couldn't find her so went on my way.

Hedges need cutting back, hardly any room!

The camp site I'd booked on to for the night was the Kokkino Limanaki campsite (N38°1' 52'', E 24°0'0'') . The site wasn't very far, 7 French Vans had just parked up and they were paying for one night only at reception. I had to leave my passport which I wasn't too happy about, however, I showed them my CCI card and was given a discount, instead of €20 it was only €14.30 a night, much better. By the time I got myself organised it was time for bed, phoned Sara and John to say I'd got there ok and texted Sally too.

Friday 9th September, 2011. Next morning I felt really tired didn't want to get up, by the time I had messed around I looked at the clock and it was nearly 1pm. What had I been doing, still felt tired, went to reception to get directions to Athens by bus, then metro. I went back, had another nap and decided to leave around 3pm and go later. It was still hot I didn't feel at all happy about walking to Rafina, up a lot of hills. As I would probably be walking back in the dark, I just stopped, turned round and went back. Paid for 2 nights and said I would be leaving in the morning. That's the point I'm at now. Just can't face going into Athens in the heat! Worked out routes and mileage back home. Didn't really want to go by ferry from Igoumenitsa, however decided to go to Delphi, then Meteora monasteries then over to Igoumenitsa and see how I felt then.

My first view of the Meteora

Saturday, 10^th September, 2011 As it happened I drove to the Acropolis in Athens only about 19 kms, couldn't park although it was only 9 am. Decided to head for Delphi found myself going further north with TT and with that, I headed straight for the Meteora and found the Garden Camping site. The journey there was through the mountains and then the plain of Thessaly onto the rock formations of Meteora. I decided to rest this evening, cook myself something. As usual although some Germans, Dutch and Italians on site no one said Hello so I didn't bother either. I got up early next morning to head out to the Monasteries.

Sunday 11th September 2011 Went straight up to the Grand Meteora monastery, was able to park easily and proceeded to walk the 300 steps down and up to the church. It was €2 entry fee, the officials were eagerly looking at the ladies to make sure they were appropriately dressed, if not wraps were available. There was an assortment of rooms to view, no photos to be taken inside. The grounds were lovely if you could imagine them without the tourists. Some had such loud voices they obviously didn't observe the signs about this being 'holy ground and please respect and have reverence for it!' At one point I went Sssh! the particular man did at least quieten down. In each room there were the inevitable book shop, I did buy one reasonably priced book on the six monasteries for €3. the church was very colourful, very reminiscent of the painted monasteries in Romania, but cleaner and much more brightly coloured. I did in fact light 7 candles, a first. Put all my considerable small change into the box for these. It was a very worthwhile visit. I then after about 2 hours decided it was time to leave and did the journey somewhat slower, back down and up the steps. It was really hot by then, about 36°C. The car park was really full now, but I was able to get out quiet easily. I meandered round the roads, stopping to look at the various methods of obtaining access to the monasteries. To get to St. Trias, there was a metal looking box which floated between two points from the roadside to the monastery. Or, you could take the 160 steps! Including a very long walk down a slope. I decided against this one. Save it for my return visit in the spring.

I headed on to St Stephens Monastery which was run by nuns. Just a small bridge to gain access and as I queued to pay for my ticket, lots of Greek people, just sidled right past. The nun didn't have a chance to take money as she was on the phone I think asking for an audience with the Priest by the sound of it. This let through quite a large number of non-paying visitors. Perhaps another nun could have been present, all revenue lost, although only €2 per person, they probably lost at last €40 while I was standing there. Or do the Greeks get free admission here and it's just us foreigners who have to pay! There was quiet a lot to look at here too. The most interesting was in the refectory where all the local dignitaries from various centuries had been painted, including a woman who had defended their (monasteries) existence. The current slogan on the book I bought, and also a decision made by The Holy Synod of the Church of Greece in 1990 for the monasteries is 'Monastic City of Rocks, Holy Meteora, Sacred Grounds, Unchangeable and Unviolated.' The site is also recognised as a protected Monument for Humanity by UNESCO and other international organisations and is part of World Heritage. The entrance to the church was very small; most of the visitors were waiting to light candles and people were trying to get in a out through one small entrance! It was just pleasant to sit, contemplate and watch what went on in this church. No sure about all the kissing of the icons, must generate a lot of germs amongst people, most of whom, went out and lit up the proverbial fag!

I did find out what the long wooden planks were; to summon the inhabitants to prayer. I took a picture of a notice which thoughtfully explained it. There were fantastic views over the Thessaly plain and the town below, a bit hazy, but vast and impressive nevertheless. The car park again was full; coaches were parked along the roadside, and me! As I wound my way down I found an entrance going down to the monastery Rousanou. Apparently there were 270 steps to gain access here. Further round the bend a parking place to walk up, not so far to the monastery this way, well may be. The St Nikolaos Church was situated on the road, however, there were still 170 steps to gain access. The rock formations going down were fantastic, hadn't seen anything like this before on my journeys. Apparently the Thessaly plains were once a sea and when it receded the erosion took place, washed away the soil; earthquakes eventually split the rocks from each other and the resulting phenomenon was left. No wonder the monks (Greek for alone) felt this was the right place to be nearer to God.

I got back to the campsite about 1.30pm, had some lunch and decided it was time for a swim. A lot of young travellers mainly in the tent complex were around the pool, either playing cards or taking the sun, which left the pool entirely to me. Had a shower afterwards and returned for a nap in the shade of my van. Decided that I could do the rest of the churches tomorrow.

The Meteora Garden Campsite