Week 5 Onwards to Sakar Hills Camp Site, Harmanli then Istanbul

Monday 30th May, 2011 Well what a day. Rather cloudy and I couldn't get going. I knew that the Dutch would be going up to the café for breakfast, so no need to get ready too quickly. I paid my bill for the week €104 for camping and eating every day, with drinks. Could get used that. Having said goodbye to everybody and feeling rather tearful as well, because I really had a good time I made my way to the village Post Office to get a new weekly rovinette for 10 Lev. I sorted that out and went on my way to find Lidl. Much further than expected but a welcome sight because there was no food in the van at all. Food is reasonably cheap here too, so I had to curtail any indulgences that came to mind as I passed rows and rows of delightful packages. 31 Lev at the cash desk and I hurried to the van as large black clouds were lurking.

Everything packed away when I decided to check the front nearside tyre. Yes it was back down again, must have a slow puncture, and there it was, a screw embedded in the tyre. I found one garage who were not interested in helping me, I moved on to try and fill the tyre with air, if it had lasted since Bucharest then I could probably get back to the camp site for their help. However, finding an air pump happened quicker than expected and then the chap said "Service station, round the corner." So I went. Shaking of hands meant they couldn't do it, so I was then asked to follow the garage owner to who knows where? Small garage, large air pressure hose, one rather large grubby man with floppy sandals asked me to turn wheel so they could find the screw. Once found, out came the plugs, glue and implements to plug the hole. The tyre didn't even go flat. 30 seconds, done!

10 Lev later and I was on my way back to the camp site, because there was no way I was going to drive 200 km in that rain. It came on in waves. I did text Nick the Camp owner, to expect me later and he very kindly offered help, which I didn't actually need because it was sorted. So dinner with Barbara again tonight, everybody greeting me and just thankful I was near a town when I discovered it and not out in the wilds which would have meant an expensive phone call back to Safeguard Emergency call out in France.

Had good night. Belgians moved out Tuesday morning, Nick actually towing them out himself just in case they churned up the grass. I decided because of the bad weather not to go to Plovdiv but make my way down to Sakar Hills.

Tuesday 31st May to Saturday 4th June 2011 Sakar Hills Camp

Mileage 32810 31 mpg 33 mph 1:03 hrs 2nd time round.

Decided not to go to Plovdiv because of my slight hiccup yesterday with the puncture. Said goodbye again, obtained Barbara's Bonn address followed the Belgians out of the camp site, they turned left I went right. Everything seemed fine with Tom Tom going through Elena until it told me to go straight down a particularly unhealthy road. I passed a gypsy couple near their car, backed up and decided to go right at the cross roads. Big mistake. It took me up into the mountains with logging lorries, not the really big ones, however I got too close to one and it whipped by left hand mirror again. No damage but couldn't stop to rearrange it no space, in case I bumped into the fourth vehicle along this road. I got to a particular spot and thought I think I've been here before, I think it was a circular road. So nothing for it but to turn back to Elena and find a more suitable route. On my way back I stopped beside the gypsy couple. I said "Elena" “Yes” she goes gently wobbling her head on top of her neck. This is old fashioned Yes, not NO. It was delightful, all I can say, Alexander Technique wise she has a very free head on top of her very free neck! I wish I could have videoed her but I felt it a bit rude. Back in Elena I plotted a route to the E85, hoping this road would be better. I plumbed for route 55, which on reflection was a bad idea, badly potholed road, stopped numerous times for lorries to come towards me, before I even ventured down the road. Several large towns, one very prim and proper with grass verges. Some villages were being cleaned up with bulldozers taking the silt out of the kerbs, villagers digging the grass verges trying to spring clean. 



The Wild Camp Site

At N42-35-15 E25-52-13 I spied a motorhome and a caravan wild camping next to a reservoir on the 55 Gurkova between 66/E773 (14200m) and 552 (37300m) looked a delightful spot and had lunch. I saw 2 dead snakes, one very lively snake crossing the road being pursued by a crow/jackdaw, 2 birds of prey couldn't tell you which. By the time I got to Sakar Hills I was quite tired.

At least I had the co-ordinates which helped. The mileage told me I'd done 174 miles! and driven for 7:90 hrs, no wonder I was tired. I obviously shouldn't have come down the Route 55, should have plumbed for Route 85 instead.

Lovely site, met Matt son of the owners Martin and Shirley Jeffes. (N41 52.247 E25 59.497). The Dutch couple from VW were here, Pauline and Wen, they had been to Plovdiv on an assignment, said it was a lovely city. Never mind it will always be there to come back to. He managed to find the co-ord's for Fisherman’s Wharf, Istanbul for me, Kucuk Ayasofya  for future reference. Whilst reading some blogs on the area I found a site called Perperikon with finds dating back 18th-12th century BC. Camp site internet working well, but couldn't get it on TomTom. Google maps provided everything bar co-ord's. Pity. Well I couldn't find them. 

Wednesday 1st June 2011 Was a day of rest and sorting out, lovely hot day, thought there may be thunderstorm. Found that my blower in the cab wasn't working properly. Looked at the fuse and it seemed to be OK. The fan worked for a while and then went off again. Will have to look at getting it mended. Martin & Shirley came by to say hello and invited me to a concert on Thursday evening in Harmanli.

Thursday brought another good day. Matt took the 3 of us to Harmanli, where we stopped at a hotel who changed some Euros for 1.98 Lev, then we went to the swimming pool and watched the 17 year old girls, strutting their stuff quite blatantly. The young lads, some of gypsy origin with very dark hair and skin also strutting their 14 year old stuff and goggling the girls! It was fun watching. Supped Pepsi Light, it was hot. The water was not! Started off at the shallow end, it was a bit warmer there and inched my way to the deep end. Kids had finished school for 3 months already and the pool gradually filled up during our stay. At about 4.30pm we left to go to the shop BonBon's, spent 33 Lev stocking up, piled in Matt's car, so I could get back to dress, freshen up for the concert.

The East Gate, I walked up!

Matt took me back to Harmanli by 5.50pm to meet Martin and Shirley, crowds were milling about outside the concert hall, some dressed in long green dresses who apparently were the local choir. We took our seats, the choir took up most of the stage, local officials and a very distinguished, lady compare, read out the Bulgarian contents of the programme. Several children came on dressed in local costumes waving the various flags of the European Community plus the guest choirs Israeli and Polish. Two girls said their pieces in a very confident manner. The national anthem rang out and everybody stood. Then the concert began. It rather took us by surprise the choir sang some Bulgarian songs and then Moon River, which was beautiful. Several solos by a man who Martin and Shirley introduced me to outside and women from the choir. The whole episode was beautiful. The Israeli choir was certainly different, mainly songs from their country, but not as melodic as the others. It seemed to go on a long time. Another small section of the main choir sang two songs, one of which was a Frank Sinatra song, not “I did it my way”, but I can't remember what it was! The last choir we think came from Poland and was unaccompanied. It was absolutely fantastic. The whole event was well worth the effort to go and see and Martin and Shirley were quite surprised at the content and were going to come back the next night for another performance of different choirs. We went to the restaurant next to the swimming pool, 1 large vodka and Fanta, 1 pork steak and chips, and a very large Shepherds Salad, which we all tucked into. I wanted to contribute to the meal but graciously accepted their kind gift and then we made our way home, having had a good laugh in the process. Matt met us as his parents dropped me off and discussed our experience. 

Friday, off I went to Perperikon. To Haskovo and then Krudzhali. On entering the town there was a sign off to the right for the historic centre. I followed this bad road and then came to road work, re-tarring the road. I was waved on, nearly to the end of the tarmac when I got stopped and was told "Back up, when lorry through, you then come." So I had to reverse very slowly because there were nasty sharp metal things marking the level of the tarmac and a dodgy left hand kerb. The guy shouted out to me "Be careful". What on earth did he think I was going to do. The lorry in front of me kept edging closer and I all did, was get slower! Yes, on purpose I think! However, when that was over I went back over my route, passed the gawking fellows and on to the site. Which I didn't find, must have completely missed the turning and it wasn't sign posted, until I came back on myself again and found the sign to the temple. Perperikon Unnamed road Krudzhali - between Ku Maykal (10650m) and 507 (4050m) N41-43-01 E25-28-09. There was a large car park for 1Lv. I bought an explanatory booklet about the site and a map for 11 Lev hoping it would be enough to get more benefit from the site.

It was a long hard walk up, you need good shoes, mind the ankles, not exactly smooth. I decided to take the old staircase up the eastern side. Kept going up, large walls fortifying the temple and palace. A large tower which I could see on the way back marking the spot. It was remarkable. I don't think there were any digs going on and according to the book none since about 2002. Some areas were roped off but the site was being allowed to fall into disrepair yet again. Some finds dating back between 18th-12th century BC, and Alexander the Great having reputedly worshipped Dionysis here and was foretold he would rule the world because the flames from the lighted wine rose higher than was usual.

Looking down to the carpark below

To come down I came through a lovely wooded area and was a lot safer on the feet. By the time I got back to the van I was ready for a drink and snack and read further into the little booklet I'd purchased. Many more tourists came and went as I sat there, mainly Bulgarians. Now that I had the co-ords I was able to get back a different way, although I still had to negotiate the new bit of tarmac now and I think they were packing up for the weekend and didn't goggle at me this time. It was a much better route and obviously shorter. On the way back I saw 2 wild tortoises, one small fawn deer whilst at the Temple, numerous small lizards, large black ants and other things lurking about in the grass.

TT took me back a very good route where I didn't even go through Kurdzhali, and therefore much quicker. I gave these co-ordinate to Matt, whereupon he decided to go off and do a leaflet to give to campers outlining the various places of interest around the area. On arrival at camp I had a large nap! Not feeling too good, only to find Matt also didn't feel good either. Before dinner I paid my dues and bought 2 bottles of wine (€3 each) with the camp label, a Merlot 2007, dry but had a lovely smell which I can't quite define! Two glasses were sufficient with my meal and for me to type this out before looking at my watch to find it was 10.35pm, where does the time go. We had a lot of rain during the evening, my windows now open, listening to the cicadas in the next field, the dog yapping outside a small Bulgarian sheep dog, who apparently guides the donkey around the field, when ploughing? The goods train passes occasionally and a strange siren goes off as it approaches the nearby level crossing. This only happens about 3 times a day, not a problem. Hopefully this thundery weather passes and better weather comes along, still I think they need some rain, lots of crops out there, and the ground here has started to crack. The Dutch couple were leaving in the morning, I will decide what to do when I wake up, have found a crossing into Greece which will take me down further into Gallipoli Peninsular instead of going to Istanbul, I'll do that on the way back, hopefully having time if I only get 2 months 3rd party Insurance. Others apparently did whole trip in 6 weeks.

Saturday, 4th June 2011 - Turkey

Catching the Istanbul traffic, you just have to
drive like they do

33122 miles. 148 miles to Perperikon. Next day we said goodbye, the Dutch couple going first and then me heading out on our way to Turkey. Got diesel in Harmanli. Lady serving me didn't like it when I had gas in my bottle and then asked for diesel. She was most perplexed, and she wanted to see my passport for some reason as I was paying by credit card. I think they probably didn't like filling gas bottles, only cars.

Getting to the Turkish border was not a problem. Arriving at the first checkpoint I gave in my passport and he sent me to gate 92 to get my Visa. They charged me 30 TL, but really they wanted Euros or Sterling. It was a £10 visa, so I got charged a bit too much! Cheeky devils. Back to Gate 78 where I was asked for vehicle documents, I just gave her the lot. She obviously took note of my green card which just said Turkey, not European or Asian side and presumed I had full insurance. I waited in the queue and a young lady asked to see inside the van. This she did and asked me "Why am I on my own." I just smiled. She stamped my passport regarding the vehicles details, I signed and that was it. Once over these formalities I was allowed to go on my way.

The Bosphorus from the bus

My first introduction to Turkish driving was entering Edirne. Honking of horns at the slightest thing, just to let you know they are there; busy busy. Not wanting to do this sort of travelling through towns all the way to Istanbul I decided it was the motorway for me. Once there, you had to purchase a ticket which had been loaded with 20TL for me. Later I found that the Dutch couple had paid 47TL and the whole journey there only took 6TL, so why all the rest. However, along the route I saw people having a picnic at the side of the motorway; someone was hitching a lift; people decided to travel in the middle lane and you just overtook them on the inside! Then it started to rain, what a downpour. Wipers going twice the speed, some people stopping because they couldn't see, another car going along in the 3rd lane without wipers! Seen everything now, so got very cautious about their driving from now on, expect the unexpected all the time!

The Blue Mosque

Once I hit Istanbul the traffic was horrendous, again the horn honking, cars nipping in and out without signalling, just pushing their way in. I suppose it's one way to get four lanes into two! So you just have to drive the same way. At least I am comprehensively insured this side of the Bosphorus!

It took a long time to get to Kilyos, Mistic Camping N41-14-59.30 E29-2-15.19. I had been on the internet about this site, even had emails saying that it was a 45 minute journey into Istanbul. Explain later that it's about 2 hours. When I arrived there was disco music playing in the background, hoping it wouldn't get louder, but it did, escalating until I couldn't stand it had to put ear plugs in, but that didn't stop it vibrating right through me! It stopped at 4am. None of us were amused.

The Blue Mosque

Fishermans' Wharf

Sunday 5th June 2011 I decided to take the bus into Istanbul. Not the 45 minutes as advertised. Walk to the mosque down the street, then across the square, past the shops to the corner where you would get a small bus (dolmus) to Sariya. This was 1.75TL, as were all bus, most train and tram tickets. Good ride about 20 minutes. Dropped by bus stop for the next bus 25E to get the tram. The drive was all along the Bosphorus, looking at the expensive boats, many many people fishing both men and women along the quays, shoulder to shoulder, it was Sunday after all. The sun was shinning brilliantly and I could tell it was going to be hot. When I arrived at Kabatas I then got on a tram for Sultanahmet and the Blue Mosque. Once there, it was prayer time 1pm, so the whole journey from Kilyos had taken at least two hours. The mosque wasn't open for another hour so I decided to walk down to the quay and did find the motorhome parking space at Fisherman’s Wharf which was exactly on the water front and about 15 minutes from the Blue Mosque. Some French motor homers filled me in about the fee, 30TL per day and it was quite secure.

I then went back up the hill and looked round the mosque, hundreds of people in there now and quite noisy. The building was marvellous and huge. I then went and had a look round Hagia Sofya a charge of 20 TL to get in. As it was a museum and no longer a place of worship, again quite busy, but what a lot to see. The Christian frescoes intermingled with the Arabic signage. About 4.30pm I decided it was time to leave, it had been a long day. I caught the tram back to Kabatas, walked over the road and started to wait for the 25E back to Sariya. Well, two hours later, lots of huffing and puffing by various people and being told because it was the last week to go before the election and there was a political meeting on, in Sariya. The buses had been stopped until finally one did come along. Tempers were a bit frayed and of course lots of people to get on the bus.

I made sure I was one of the first one's on, not usually like this but I had been waiting 2 hours and others not so long. The passengers were very squashed and hardly any people could get on along the route. It was difficult to get off too! The route was blocked by lots of very badly parked cars, loads of traffic, honking as usual and that took another 2 hours to get to Sariya and of course there were all the buses parked along the route, not going anywhere! There was a big market which I had seen in the morning, obviously there for the meeting.

When we arrived at Sariya I was concerned that the bus to Kilyos would still be running. Fortunately a lady took pity on me, took me to the bus stop where we got on the next bus which was full of men, besides us! It was very dark when we reached Kilyos, she was walking my way and beyond the camp site, we said goodbye and thanks only to find that they had locked the camp site gates, the time 10.20pm. Well, I did get worried, shouting to be let in, rattled the gates, rang the door bell etc. Eventually Wein came and opened up the door, he had heard my frantic calls. I could have just put my hand through the side gate and opened it, but I was so tired I didn't even notice it was there. My grateful thanks, a quick conversation about the journey and how were they going in the morning. They were going by ferry, good luck I said hope it didn't take so long. No disco tonight, what a relief.