Week 6 Istanbul, European Turkey crossing over into Asian Turkey with Insurance! To Ankara, Museum of Anatolian Civilizations and Hattusha

Monday 6^th June Mistic Camping Next day I rested, tried to have a sunbathe, until a lot of French vans started to drive into the very small site. I'd decided by this time that I was leaving to go to Fisherman's Wharf the next day and quickly got my van out of the way of the French vans so that I didn't get hemmed in. They thought I had a big problem, no, just wanted to be able to exit quickly in the morning and not be held up by anything, I couldn't get away quickly enough.

Inside Hagia Sofya

Tuesday 7th June 2011 Kilyos mileage 33332 31 mph 9.20 hrs. Fisherman's Wharf, Istanbul. N41-00-05 E28-58-38  As it turned out I was up by 0700, ready within 20 minutes and a coach parked right across the road to take, who else, but the French into Istanbul. Well good luck, but I was going first! Everything went well, until I hit the traffic, just got into the mood like everybody else heading towards the city. I hit Kennedy Caddisi about 8.30, went up to the roundabout about 2 km from the Wharf car park and then turned left towards it. Blast, missed the entrance to the car park, obviously couldn't reverse, silly me, so had to go forward and find somewhere to turn round. About 5 miles later I had returned to park up and breathe a sigh of relief. Arrived here 33366 miles, 331.5 miles 29 mpg. 11.09 hrs. (34.2 miles from Kilyos including the missed turning.) N41-00-05 E28-58-38. The car park was plenty big enough for lots of vans. I was given 3 tickets the first day for my 30TL, but they just took my money after that without issuing any tickets, so I just accepted it. As long as nobody decided to ask for more money, as the gate attendants changed every day, I don't think I saw the same guy twice.  

Hagia Sofya

Parked next to a Swiss couple who had obviously gone out for the day, but did say hello later. Today the Palace was shut so I walked up the road to do the Basilica Cistern. 10 TL to get in and it was huge, a lot bigger than the one I'd seen in Morocco. As I approached the audio station I dropped my camera. Batteries flying, and one plopped down into the grating and was lost forever. Fortunately I had other batteries but it was a rechargeable one! Camera still worked fortunately. Lots of young girls looking today, not so many tourists, it was quite early. From here I decided to go to the Suleymaniye Mosque. Tourist Info said to get a tram to Eminonu and then walk, as if I went left I would have to go through many streets in the Grand Bazaar and probably get lost. He said it was much easier. Well it was, still an uphill trek. Wasn't wearing the right shoes though. When I arrived at the Suleymaniye Mosque there was hardly anyone in there. What a peaceful time I had, able to sit on the floor and just drink in its magnificence. Wonderful. Walked out and went into a nearby restaurant, was invited to go and have a look at what was cooking. Decided on some chicken stew and rice. When it came with 4 great big pieces of bread, water and the chicken arrived, but no rice. It then came and the whole meal was really delicious. Couldn't eat all the bread, just 2 pieces, which I noticed everyone else dipped into their gravy. Lovely meal and only 11.5TL, so I gave them 13, as the tip wasn't included. Didn't know whether that was enough or not. Walked back down to the van to enjoy the evening. It was a bit noisy, but nothing like the other night.

Inside Suleymaniye Mosque

Wednesday 8th June 2011 Next morning, again a lovely day, decided to go to the Palace for 20TL. Didn't do audio, probably should have, another 10TL. Lots of tourists here, queues to get in the Treasury, so I decided to go anticlockwise where it was a bit quieter. Looked at the menu for the Restaurant, decided it was too expensive £10 to light salad with meat! Went back up the stairs and haggled with myself as to whether I did the harem or not. Well there was a little café, a yoghurt drink and a roll, 6TL, great. Harem 15TL, but it was well worth it. I'm glad I went in it was very interesting.

Entrance to the Palace

One good reason not to go during the tourist season!

Again back to the van after a long day. Tonight there was a lot of loud music but it didn't affect me fortunately. I had decided to go and get my Asian Turkey insurance today from the TTOK offices. I had 2 addresses in my guide book. I picked one, got directions, walked up to Sultanahmet for the tram to Kabatas, metro train to Taksim then Metro to 4 Levent, thinking this was the right address. Well no, braved several wrong directions from people and TT, arrived at the assigned Caddesi, very perplexed because there were only cafés here. Nobody knew where to go until someone in the taxi rank said yes I know where you want to go. Thank goodness only a 10TL ride about 15 minutes away. Well it was the address I didn't choose. One person out of many knew the correct address, one has to be persistent!   

The address for the Turkish Touring Organisation is, Oto Sanayi Sitesi Yani 1, Seyrantepe Yolku, IV Levent, Istanbul: telephone number 0212 282 8140 www turing.org.tr. I got the name from an AA Internet information sheet, but it didn't give the address. There were 2 in my DK travel book, one of which was completely wrong! 

Beautiful gardens

So much for intuition however, I realised when I spoke to them on the phone at the Tourist Office I didn't exactly ask which address they were at! The gates to the Touring offices were guarded, it didn't say TTOK but there you go, taxi fare was only 6.45TL gave him 10TL and told him to keep the change. At least he found it for me. I could actually have braved the traffic and driven there on my way out of Istanbul, but there you go. Inside the offices a young gentleman took over for me, couldn't understand why I didn't have a personal Turkish address, they put down the office address. 

Istanbul Street

The young man took my English phone number without the first 0 because the computer wouldn't take it. Originally they had told me it was 36TL which I thought was a bit cheap. Anyway it turned out that obviously a motorhome was a bit more to insure than a car and it turned out to be 120.45TL for two months. Oh well, about £60 so I went for it. I said I thought 36TL was a bit cheap, much confusion because he didn't understand what I said, lead to a long conversation with the young lady who could speak a little English. Anyway we got there in the end, I wasn't complaining.

The young lady told me how to get back to the Metro, just simply by walking up to the main road on the left side, adjacent with the dual carriage way, found the Metro which was Seyrantepe, paid my 1.75TL to the station where I could get the Nostalgic Tram. Once out in the square I couldn't for the life of me see the tram stop, stopped two ladies who laughed and pointed across the street to the tram overhead lines and straight ahead. We all laughed and went on our way. I must say I prefer asking directions from ladies, they give you the right ones! Took another tram back to Sultanahmet, walked down to the Wharf, after yet another exhausting excursion, still I was seeing a lot of Istanbul. Diesel at 33510 28.8 mpg 32 mph

Friday 10th June 2011 Today I was going to Akcakora, Hamburg Camping about 255km from Istanbul, so started quite early got on the motorway, crossed the bridge to the Asian side, now I was legal, used my toll card twice until I didn't have any more left. Got out of the van because I had to buy another ticket. This time they charged me 50TL for KGS toll card. Didn't have to pay any till I turned off for Akcakora 8.75TL. Got on the road to the camp site, full of potholes just couldn't face it. Turned round and went and found a supermarket which was closed because if was after 1pm, prayer time.

Me stuck in the mud and the Esenboga Hotel set back from the dual carriageway

Bought a dirty great loaf for 3TL I'm still having chunks off it now Thursday 16th June. Supermarket opened and did some shopping in there. Food didn't seem too expensive to me. Decided to go to Ankara, there were two stops both at hotels, but decided to go to Esenboga Airport Hotel as it was in the north and therefore not so far to travel. Well the next part of the journey turned into storms yet again. My, they do have some rain out here no wonder the land is so green.

I found the hotel because I knew roughly where it was. N40-04-26 E32-56-24. Turned to get on the other side of the dual carriageway, and proceeded to drive towards the hotel. Well I didn't go the right way did I? Decided to go across a bit of a muddy patch and all of a sudden I couldn't go anywhere. Got out, up to my knees in mud, walked, waded to the reception. All the hotel management staff had come out and were laughing, good job I was laughing too, through embarrassment! They were lovely, rushing around trying to find out who the bulldozer driver was and going off to fetch him. Was given some Chai, very sweet and lemony, decided it was the powdered stuff, yet very nice. Had two young ladies who were management, entertain me until the driver arrived. Well, what a commotion, they tried to take out my towing bolt, but I saved the day and took my D lock off my generator, threaded it through the towing bolt and we put the bulldozer's tow band through that. Hey presto, all set, steering lock off and ready to go. As usual, no sedate towing, just wham, and off the mud I came. Many thanks all round, mud everywhere in the van. I was taken behind the hotel and washed down, me and the van! Very entertaining episode.

The ladies kept telling me about the sauna, steam room and swimming pool, which I could use and was included in the 19€ nightly fee. I did indulge in the swimming pool and Turkish bath; however the latter was a bit hot for me, so the attendant put down a towel on the marble and threw the hot water over that. I didn't really expect the marble to be quite so hot, but that's what probably kept me awake it certainly didn't make me sleepy. Unfortunately, my excitement or whatever, kept me awake most of the night so I was reading it seemed, for hours, and guess what there was a teenage disco going on too, which didn't help. Well, I was warm and cosy, so it didn't really matter.

Sunday 11th June 2011 Today I was going into Ankara to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations by bus. I walked down to the bus stop which was to the left of the hotel, a young man with a small child stepped quickly forward to hail the bus 487. Standing room only, but again only 1.75TL. Good this. Put me off at a traffic lights about 30 minutes later and told to walk up to my left. So OK, but forgot to ask where I got on the bus to go back! Weather was getting hot again so I started my walk, didn't know how far, but just followed the brown signs to the Museum. When I got up a steep hill there was a large car park in my left, I approached them and was told to go up the steps. This I duly entertained until I could go no further and sat down on the wall to recuperate.

Bad move. This young man was struggling up the hill, hand on heart, got to me, said he was Muhammed, sat down beside me, promptly put his arm round my shoulders and started jabbering on. Where was I going etc. Well I got a bit narked to say the least, knew this from Morocco, the man just wouldn't leave me alone, wanted to show me where to go. I changed my mind about the museum and walked up the steps towards the castle. Well, when I turned round having decided not to venture any further, there he was standing there in front of me, having back tracked because I didn't go to the Museum. This time I wasn't polite - Just leave me alone thank you, I just want to be on my own!

I did get to the Museum without any further annoyance. I bought my ticket 20TL and audio 5TL and set about touring the museum. It was so interesting, I spent nearly 4 hours in there. Some places to sit, but all those steps and the incident had seriously upset my back and I was aching, something I hadn't experienced for years. The Museum had won the European Museum of the Year award and I must say it was beautifully laid out and well signed in English. I walked out of the Museum, straight ahead of me were some steps going down and I turned right and followed the road back to the original car park. This was a much better route and avoided all those steps, and any young man who tried to way lay me!

I crossed over the road where there was a series of metal frames preventing you from falling down into the excavations below. No a single notice telling you what it was, and I couldn't find out either. Shame. Crossed back to the other side in the shade and found a lovely Kebab café. Chicken kebab 2.75TL and drink 1.50TL; it was delicious, apart from the green peppers which I quickly discarded. The young lady even cut my roll in half for me because it was so big. I was offered a doggy bag half way through because they thought I had finished. Well I needed that other half, my energy was flagging, especially when the election van came round with its loud speakers up to full volume. I just had to put my hands over my ears, it hurt. The chefs all laughed, and I did too, but I kept my hands there. Back at the bus station, I couldn't find any reference to Culuk where the hotel was. I tried several chaps to see if they could help and then one elderly man said I show you. So I walked up the street with him and I spied a bus with the number 487 going away from me. We crossed the road, a bus was at the traffic lights, he asked for airport hotel, "Yes" I promptly got on; said “goodbye and thanks” and the bus took off, round to the right, lots of Turkish talk, laughing, turned round in the road and up to the bus stop where I should have got on. They took my money, took on other people and then we proceeded to go back on route. Well, they picked up people, not at bus stops, actually honked the horn to tell people the bus had arrived, some really bad driving and then I think the driver's wife and daughter got on, and she decided to sit beside me. I thought perhaps his driving would improve. Wrong. Anyway we made it, I saw the hotel across the road, he dropped me near the pedestrian staircase, because I was not going to negotiate 4 lanes of Turkish traffic down that stretch of road! Back at the van I quickly ate a small sandwich, the kebab really having filled me, but it was a few hours ago. Was going to have another swim, it started to rain so I didn't go. Tucked myself in bed and read, falling asleep very quickly.

Sunday, 12th June 2011 Mileage 33676, 33793 Diesel 163TL Next stop Bogazkale, Baskent Hotel. N40-01-42 E34-37-09

I was now driving towards the old Hittite city of Bogazkale and TT took me straight there, good journey, some rain again, but wide roads, with a bit extra tarmac thrown in, you just had to distinguish which bit to drive on! Arrived at the Hotel and was greeted by a gentleman, shook hands and said the Chef would be out soon to show me to my camp site. He came out, I unfortunately took an immediate dislike to him. I parked, told it was 20TL, good price, good pitches, toilets/showers bit dated and not cleaned straight away. Suddenly there were 3 men taking care of that job. As my back still ached, I wasn't going anywhere, just to have a rest. There was a knock at the door the Chef was standing there asking if I'd like some chai, I politely said I would come later, but he kept hanging around trying to make conversation, he spoke German, I didn't.

He eventually went, I shut the door, settled down for a nap! Ha Ha! four voices got increasing louder all arguing about something outside. I eventually opened the door, no sleep to find them discussing the hot water system right outside my door. Well I do pick my spots. I don't think people on this part of the planet know what it's like to have a quiet conversation. I got out and had a look round; the scenery was fantastic. I found where the Hittite city was and interestingly enough I could actually drive round it. That was the next morning.

Later a German couple arrived in a VW van, they made their way up to the café. I thought this was a good time to go with them and have chai. The Chef/owner was I felt a very lonely man and just wanted conversation, would have done anything to get that. I felt a bit awkward and guilty but when I'm tired, don't ask me for conversation.

The Green Stone on the archeological site

I think coming to Turkey was a culture shock, very noisy, vibrant, but a bit too much for my system, and I've been suffering. However, I was determined to travel on till I found somewhere I could just chill out. The German couple were very interesting, couldn't be more helpful, gave me some good information as to where they had been. Left Bashkent Camp Site 33814 mileage 35 mph, 21.42 hours travelling at 3,520 ft above sea level.

Two vans, the only occupants

 

Week 5 Onwards to Sakar Hills Camp Site, Harmanli then Istanbul

Monday 30th May, 2011 Well what a day. Rather cloudy and I couldn't get going. I knew that the Dutch would be going up to the café for breakfast, so no need to get ready too quickly. I paid my bill for the week €104 for camping and eating every day, with drinks. Could get used that. Having said goodbye to everybody and feeling rather tearful as well, because I really had a good time I made my way to the village Post Office to get a new weekly rovinette for 10 Lev. I sorted that out and went on my way to find Lidl. Much further than expected but a welcome sight because there was no food in the van at all. Food is reasonably cheap here too, so I had to curtail any indulgences that came to mind as I passed rows and rows of delightful packages. 31 Lev at the cash desk and I hurried to the van as large black clouds were lurking.

Everything packed away when I decided to check the front nearside tyre. Yes it was back down again, must have a slow puncture, and there it was, a screw embedded in the tyre. I found one garage who were not interested in helping me, I moved on to try and fill the tyre with air, if it had lasted since Bucharest then I could probably get back to the camp site for their help. However, finding an air pump happened quicker than expected and then the chap said "Service station, round the corner." So I went. Shaking of hands meant they couldn't do it, so I was then asked to follow the garage owner to who knows where? Small garage, large air pressure hose, one rather large grubby man with floppy sandals asked me to turn wheel so they could find the screw. Once found, out came the plugs, glue and implements to plug the hole. The tyre didn't even go flat. 30 seconds, done!

10 Lev later and I was on my way back to the camp site, because there was no way I was going to drive 200 km in that rain. It came on in waves. I did text Nick the Camp owner, to expect me later and he very kindly offered help, which I didn't actually need because it was sorted. So dinner with Barbara again tonight, everybody greeting me and just thankful I was near a town when I discovered it and not out in the wilds which would have meant an expensive phone call back to Safeguard Emergency call out in France.

Had good night. Belgians moved out Tuesday morning, Nick actually towing them out himself just in case they churned up the grass. I decided because of the bad weather not to go to Plovdiv but make my way down to Sakar Hills.

Tuesday 31st May to Saturday 4th June 2011 Sakar Hills Camp

Mileage 32810 31 mpg 33 mph 1:03 hrs 2nd time round.

Decided not to go to Plovdiv because of my slight hiccup yesterday with the puncture. Said goodbye again, obtained Barbara's Bonn address followed the Belgians out of the camp site, they turned left I went right. Everything seemed fine with Tom Tom going through Elena until it told me to go straight down a particularly unhealthy road. I passed a gypsy couple near their car, backed up and decided to go right at the cross roads. Big mistake. It took me up into the mountains with logging lorries, not the really big ones, however I got too close to one and it whipped by left hand mirror again. No damage but couldn't stop to rearrange it no space, in case I bumped into the fourth vehicle along this road. I got to a particular spot and thought I think I've been here before, I think it was a circular road. So nothing for it but to turn back to Elena and find a more suitable route. On my way back I stopped beside the gypsy couple. I said "Elena" “Yes” she goes gently wobbling her head on top of her neck. This is old fashioned Yes, not NO. It was delightful, all I can say, Alexander Technique wise she has a very free head on top of her very free neck! I wish I could have videoed her but I felt it a bit rude. Back in Elena I plotted a route to the E85, hoping this road would be better. I plumbed for route 55, which on reflection was a bad idea, badly potholed road, stopped numerous times for lorries to come towards me, before I even ventured down the road. Several large towns, one very prim and proper with grass verges. Some villages were being cleaned up with bulldozers taking the silt out of the kerbs, villagers digging the grass verges trying to spring clean. 



The Wild Camp Site

At N42-35-15 E25-52-13 I spied a motorhome and a caravan wild camping next to a reservoir on the 55 Gurkova between 66/E773 (14200m) and 552 (37300m) looked a delightful spot and had lunch. I saw 2 dead snakes, one very lively snake crossing the road being pursued by a crow/jackdaw, 2 birds of prey couldn't tell you which. By the time I got to Sakar Hills I was quite tired.

At least I had the co-ordinates which helped. The mileage told me I'd done 174 miles! and driven for 7:90 hrs, no wonder I was tired. I obviously shouldn't have come down the Route 55, should have plumbed for Route 85 instead.

Lovely site, met Matt son of the owners Martin and Shirley Jeffes. (N41 52.247 E25 59.497). The Dutch couple from VW were here, Pauline and Wen, they had been to Plovdiv on an assignment, said it was a lovely city. Never mind it will always be there to come back to. He managed to find the co-ord's for Fisherman’s Wharf, Istanbul for me, Kucuk Ayasofya  for future reference. Whilst reading some blogs on the area I found a site called Perperikon with finds dating back 18th-12th century BC. Camp site internet working well, but couldn't get it on TomTom. Google maps provided everything bar co-ord's. Pity. Well I couldn't find them. 

Wednesday 1st June 2011 Was a day of rest and sorting out, lovely hot day, thought there may be thunderstorm. Found that my blower in the cab wasn't working properly. Looked at the fuse and it seemed to be OK. The fan worked for a while and then went off again. Will have to look at getting it mended. Martin & Shirley came by to say hello and invited me to a concert on Thursday evening in Harmanli.

Thursday brought another good day. Matt took the 3 of us to Harmanli, where we stopped at a hotel who changed some Euros for 1.98 Lev, then we went to the swimming pool and watched the 17 year old girls, strutting their stuff quite blatantly. The young lads, some of gypsy origin with very dark hair and skin also strutting their 14 year old stuff and goggling the girls! It was fun watching. Supped Pepsi Light, it was hot. The water was not! Started off at the shallow end, it was a bit warmer there and inched my way to the deep end. Kids had finished school for 3 months already and the pool gradually filled up during our stay. At about 4.30pm we left to go to the shop BonBon's, spent 33 Lev stocking up, piled in Matt's car, so I could get back to dress, freshen up for the concert.

The East Gate, I walked up!

Matt took me back to Harmanli by 5.50pm to meet Martin and Shirley, crowds were milling about outside the concert hall, some dressed in long green dresses who apparently were the local choir. We took our seats, the choir took up most of the stage, local officials and a very distinguished, lady compare, read out the Bulgarian contents of the programme. Several children came on dressed in local costumes waving the various flags of the European Community plus the guest choirs Israeli and Polish. Two girls said their pieces in a very confident manner. The national anthem rang out and everybody stood. Then the concert began. It rather took us by surprise the choir sang some Bulgarian songs and then Moon River, which was beautiful. Several solos by a man who Martin and Shirley introduced me to outside and women from the choir. The whole episode was beautiful. The Israeli choir was certainly different, mainly songs from their country, but not as melodic as the others. It seemed to go on a long time. Another small section of the main choir sang two songs, one of which was a Frank Sinatra song, not “I did it my way”, but I can't remember what it was! The last choir we think came from Poland and was unaccompanied. It was absolutely fantastic. The whole event was well worth the effort to go and see and Martin and Shirley were quite surprised at the content and were going to come back the next night for another performance of different choirs. We went to the restaurant next to the swimming pool, 1 large vodka and Fanta, 1 pork steak and chips, and a very large Shepherds Salad, which we all tucked into. I wanted to contribute to the meal but graciously accepted their kind gift and then we made our way home, having had a good laugh in the process. Matt met us as his parents dropped me off and discussed our experience. 

Friday, off I went to Perperikon. To Haskovo and then Krudzhali. On entering the town there was a sign off to the right for the historic centre. I followed this bad road and then came to road work, re-tarring the road. I was waved on, nearly to the end of the tarmac when I got stopped and was told "Back up, when lorry through, you then come." So I had to reverse very slowly because there were nasty sharp metal things marking the level of the tarmac and a dodgy left hand kerb. The guy shouted out to me "Be careful". What on earth did he think I was going to do. The lorry in front of me kept edging closer and I all did, was get slower! Yes, on purpose I think! However, when that was over I went back over my route, passed the gawking fellows and on to the site. Which I didn't find, must have completely missed the turning and it wasn't sign posted, until I came back on myself again and found the sign to the temple. Perperikon Unnamed road Krudzhali - between Ku Maykal (10650m) and 507 (4050m) N41-43-01 E25-28-09. There was a large car park for 1Lv. I bought an explanatory booklet about the site and a map for 11 Lev hoping it would be enough to get more benefit from the site.

It was a long hard walk up, you need good shoes, mind the ankles, not exactly smooth. I decided to take the old staircase up the eastern side. Kept going up, large walls fortifying the temple and palace. A large tower which I could see on the way back marking the spot. It was remarkable. I don't think there were any digs going on and according to the book none since about 2002. Some areas were roped off but the site was being allowed to fall into disrepair yet again. Some finds dating back between 18th-12th century BC, and Alexander the Great having reputedly worshipped Dionysis here and was foretold he would rule the world because the flames from the lighted wine rose higher than was usual.

Looking down to the carpark below

To come down I came through a lovely wooded area and was a lot safer on the feet. By the time I got back to the van I was ready for a drink and snack and read further into the little booklet I'd purchased. Many more tourists came and went as I sat there, mainly Bulgarians. Now that I had the co-ords I was able to get back a different way, although I still had to negotiate the new bit of tarmac now and I think they were packing up for the weekend and didn't goggle at me this time. It was a much better route and obviously shorter. On the way back I saw 2 wild tortoises, one small fawn deer whilst at the Temple, numerous small lizards, large black ants and other things lurking about in the grass.

TT took me back a very good route where I didn't even go through Kurdzhali, and therefore much quicker. I gave these co-ordinate to Matt, whereupon he decided to go off and do a leaflet to give to campers outlining the various places of interest around the area. On arrival at camp I had a large nap! Not feeling too good, only to find Matt also didn't feel good either. Before dinner I paid my dues and bought 2 bottles of wine (€3 each) with the camp label, a Merlot 2007, dry but had a lovely smell which I can't quite define! Two glasses were sufficient with my meal and for me to type this out before looking at my watch to find it was 10.35pm, where does the time go. We had a lot of rain during the evening, my windows now open, listening to the cicadas in the next field, the dog yapping outside a small Bulgarian sheep dog, who apparently guides the donkey around the field, when ploughing? The goods train passes occasionally and a strange siren goes off as it approaches the nearby level crossing. This only happens about 3 times a day, not a problem. Hopefully this thundery weather passes and better weather comes along, still I think they need some rain, lots of crops out there, and the ground here has started to crack. The Dutch couple were leaving in the morning, I will decide what to do when I wake up, have found a crossing into Greece which will take me down further into Gallipoli Peninsular instead of going to Istanbul, I'll do that on the way back, hopefully having time if I only get 2 months 3rd party Insurance. Others apparently did whole trip in 6 weeks.

Saturday, 4th June 2011 - Turkey

Catching the Istanbul traffic, you just have to
drive like they do

33122 miles. 148 miles to Perperikon. Next day we said goodbye, the Dutch couple going first and then me heading out on our way to Turkey. Got diesel in Harmanli. Lady serving me didn't like it when I had gas in my bottle and then asked for diesel. She was most perplexed, and she wanted to see my passport for some reason as I was paying by credit card. I think they probably didn't like filling gas bottles, only cars.

Getting to the Turkish border was not a problem. Arriving at the first checkpoint I gave in my passport and he sent me to gate 92 to get my Visa. They charged me 30 TL, but really they wanted Euros or Sterling. It was a £10 visa, so I got charged a bit too much! Cheeky devils. Back to Gate 78 where I was asked for vehicle documents, I just gave her the lot. She obviously took note of my green card which just said Turkey, not European or Asian side and presumed I had full insurance. I waited in the queue and a young lady asked to see inside the van. This she did and asked me "Why am I on my own." I just smiled. She stamped my passport regarding the vehicles details, I signed and that was it. Once over these formalities I was allowed to go on my way.

The Bosphorus from the bus

My first introduction to Turkish driving was entering Edirne. Honking of horns at the slightest thing, just to let you know they are there; busy busy. Not wanting to do this sort of travelling through towns all the way to Istanbul I decided it was the motorway for me. Once there, you had to purchase a ticket which had been loaded with 20TL for me. Later I found that the Dutch couple had paid 47TL and the whole journey there only took 6TL, so why all the rest. However, along the route I saw people having a picnic at the side of the motorway; someone was hitching a lift; people decided to travel in the middle lane and you just overtook them on the inside! Then it started to rain, what a downpour. Wipers going twice the speed, some people stopping because they couldn't see, another car going along in the 3rd lane without wipers! Seen everything now, so got very cautious about their driving from now on, expect the unexpected all the time!

The Blue Mosque

Once I hit Istanbul the traffic was horrendous, again the horn honking, cars nipping in and out without signalling, just pushing their way in. I suppose it's one way to get four lanes into two! So you just have to drive the same way. At least I am comprehensively insured this side of the Bosphorus!

It took a long time to get to Kilyos, Mistic Camping N41-14-59.30 E29-2-15.19. I had been on the internet about this site, even had emails saying that it was a 45 minute journey into Istanbul. Explain later that it's about 2 hours. When I arrived there was disco music playing in the background, hoping it wouldn't get louder, but it did, escalating until I couldn't stand it had to put ear plugs in, but that didn't stop it vibrating right through me! It stopped at 4am. None of us were amused.

The Blue Mosque

Fishermans' Wharf

Sunday 5th June 2011 I decided to take the bus into Istanbul. Not the 45 minutes as advertised. Walk to the mosque down the street, then across the square, past the shops to the corner where you would get a small bus (dolmus) to Sariya. This was 1.75TL, as were all bus, most train and tram tickets. Good ride about 20 minutes. Dropped by bus stop for the next bus 25E to get the tram. The drive was all along the Bosphorus, looking at the expensive boats, many many people fishing both men and women along the quays, shoulder to shoulder, it was Sunday after all. The sun was shinning brilliantly and I could tell it was going to be hot. When I arrived at Kabatas I then got on a tram for Sultanahmet and the Blue Mosque. Once there, it was prayer time 1pm, so the whole journey from Kilyos had taken at least two hours. The mosque wasn't open for another hour so I decided to walk down to the quay and did find the motorhome parking space at Fisherman’s Wharf which was exactly on the water front and about 15 minutes from the Blue Mosque. Some French motor homers filled me in about the fee, 30TL per day and it was quite secure.

I then went back up the hill and looked round the mosque, hundreds of people in there now and quite noisy. The building was marvellous and huge. I then went and had a look round Hagia Sofya a charge of 20 TL to get in. As it was a museum and no longer a place of worship, again quite busy, but what a lot to see. The Christian frescoes intermingled with the Arabic signage. About 4.30pm I decided it was time to leave, it had been a long day. I caught the tram back to Kabatas, walked over the road and started to wait for the 25E back to Sariya. Well, two hours later, lots of huffing and puffing by various people and being told because it was the last week to go before the election and there was a political meeting on, in Sariya. The buses had been stopped until finally one did come along. Tempers were a bit frayed and of course lots of people to get on the bus.

I made sure I was one of the first one's on, not usually like this but I had been waiting 2 hours and others not so long. The passengers were very squashed and hardly any people could get on along the route. It was difficult to get off too! The route was blocked by lots of very badly parked cars, loads of traffic, honking as usual and that took another 2 hours to get to Sariya and of course there were all the buses parked along the route, not going anywhere! There was a big market which I had seen in the morning, obviously there for the meeting.

When we arrived at Sariya I was concerned that the bus to Kilyos would still be running. Fortunately a lady took pity on me, took me to the bus stop where we got on the next bus which was full of men, besides us! It was very dark when we reached Kilyos, she was walking my way and beyond the camp site, we said goodbye and thanks only to find that they had locked the camp site gates, the time 10.20pm. Well, I did get worried, shouting to be let in, rattled the gates, rang the door bell etc. Eventually Wein came and opened up the door, he had heard my frantic calls. I could have just put my hand through the side gate and opened it, but I was so tired I didn't even notice it was there. My grateful thanks, a quick conversation about the journey and how were they going in the morning. They were going by ferry, good luck I said hope it didn't take so long. No disco tonight, what a relief.

Week 4 Bucharest to go through to Bulgaria, Camping Veliko Tarnovo

Monday, 23rd May 2011 Left Bucharest quite early and obviously hit the rush hour. It was a bit slow but interesting. I headed towards the bridge border crossing at Giurgiu. The lady official wanted something like 25 Lei for a bridge tax and didn't want to give me a receipt. I politely told her they are in the European Community now and it was the norm to give official receipts. Well, she finally came after me and gave me one! The bridge was very austere, full of potholes, however, no trouble driving through. It wasn't too far down to Veliko Turnovo, but there was no real architecture as such, just plain houses, nothing outstanding. It all seemed very bland to me. Roads not too good, driving a bit reckless, just keep looking in the side mirror to see what's happening.

Arrived Monday 23rd May, supposed to have left Monday 30th May 2011

Barbara's van and Main Building
and the marques ready for summer

The journey down from the border was very uneventful. The roads were good and bad, the driving left a lot to be desired too. However, I had a very restful week. Just vegging out. Did washing, washed very dirty van, made minor repairs to back nearside light, and changed the offside rear brake light yet again! Tried to make my tarpaulin into a sun shade. Had to plait 3 strings of string together to make it thick enough to thread through awning on van and not come out in a strong wind! Don't know if it works yet will try later today. Bought the adjustable tent poles at least 18 months ago in Yorkshire, only now getting round to completing the job. This is certainly my sort of camp site. Camping Veliko Tarnovo owned by Nick and Nicky Kinson, www.campingvelikotarnovo.com; email: office@campingvelikotarnovo.com. N43.04.01 E25.45.11

The facilities

Their plan started in 2006 and is nearly there. Their house came first, then the facilities block. It's a slight downward slope, but they've managed to terrace the 50 pitches, mostly electric, mostly with water, several grey water drains, one chemical disposal, but needs it's own water supply, (does have hose pipe, someone has misappropriated it!), excellent for washing dishes, laundry facilities, toilets and showers, a lovely bar/café and for the first time since motor homing in nearly 20 years I have been treating myself to an evening meal each night with a different tipple each night. The garden is officially tended by a lady Bulgarian gardener and everything looks wonderful. The swimming pool is 2 weeks behind schedule but it's looking good and I must say the local workers, certainly don't shirk in the boiling sunshine. Wonderful job. A few more trees will provide some shade it you haven't got an awning, but it will happen. When I arrived it was a public holiday (23.5.11) and also Tuesday and the bar was full of local English and Bulgarian customers. 

 The local Village Ladies Choir

My van looks out onto marvellous lush green fields, dipping to a valley of trees and the inevitable river, going up then to wooded hillside and mountains in the distance. Birds singing, cuckoos, doing their thing, swallows looking for places to nest, not in these eves, lots of sparrows, I think they've migrated here from England! An owl, not yet identified, sits on the washing line morning and evening, fire flies and crickets in the evening, marvellous. And I nearly forgot clip clopping of hooves when the fellas go by with their carts morning and evening. The skies blue with wisps of cloud, except for Thursday when the heavens thundered and rained down on us. The lawns were cut yesterday awaiting the arrival of 22 Dutch vans Saturday and about 10 Belgian vehicles sometime Sunday, this is when I take my leave. There is also an excellent taxi service 10 Lev each way, provided by the local taxi driver. Barbara (a single lady from Bonn about the same age as me) and I, and two Dutch youngsters, Pauline and Wen (on their way to South Africa, via southern Turkey, ferry to Egypt, down through Eastern African and onwards) went to the free showing of Son et Lumière at the castle in Veliko Tarnovo. We got there at about 2000 and had to wait until 2120 for the show to begin. The music was dramatic, portraying the history of Bulgaria, synchronizing with the wonderfully coloured and mysterious light show. Flashes signifying gun shots, blasts, just have to imagine, terrifying sounds like screaming. The Bulgarians have been dominated one way of another by other countries since the Ottomans arrived 600+ years ago. 10pm the taxi arrived for another bumpy and noisy ride back, except the latter stopped when the driver got out and closed the boot lid properly!

My friendly butterfly

My home made awning, did the trick

Alan, one of the wardens sang, played the guitar on Wednesday. I've sat nearly every evening with my wifi catching up with home, various things like checking whether my Safeguard green card covers me for Asian Turkey. “No it doesn't, this was explained to you,” “No it wasn't!” So now I have to purchase 2/3 months 3rd party insurance at the border, top whack £136 (www info). Not good. I thought I'd check my Columbus Direct Medical Insurance as well, now that's OK, it includes the whole of Turkey. Both insurance companies replied very quickly to my emails, quite impressed! Adrian, another single camper also a warden, goes off walking, cycling or just touring in his car nearly everyday when he's not working, my, he's got some energy. Another intrepid traveller, buying a £500 Volvo off Ebay for this trip, and he's living in a rather warm, nearly 100% unventilated tent, but is going to move his position after the bulk travellers have passed through, to a shadier spot near the fence with suitable tree.  I complained to Barbara who is German and widely travelled, that I couldn't distinguish any Bulgarian architecture along the way, seemed quite plain, badly kept, but nothing special.

She has advised me to try Plovdiv where there are good examples of Bulgarian houses, so I'm going there on Monday, another diversion, to have a look see. My route of supposedly 2000 miles to Turkey, is now 2,500 miles, with Ann's diversions along the route! and I'm not there yet. But I'm really enjoying myself here and harvesting energy to deal with camping in Istanbul, just hope the local disco isn't near the security car park, it's closed down, or something.

Week 3 Romania - Painted Monasteries, Sighisoara and Bucharest

Monday 16th May 2011 Not a good night for some reason, mainly a dog constantly barking quite close. Did wake about 0700 had fruit for breakfast, as I'd run out of milk. Thought I'd bought some extra milk powder but scoured the cupboards, couldn't make it appear. Thought I would go shopping for bread. Did this at a little shop near the Monastery. Had everything in there except milk “Where could I get some” open hands uplifted – nowhere! Bananas,bread, rolls, yoghurt and 11.50 Lei later I walked up again to the Church for a quieter look. It was much colder today, raining as well. Sat in van writing this when two Dutch motorhomes arrived. Went outside to say hello, leaned that they had come from Poland and they'd bought a Rovinette at the border €7 for a month. Cristiana phoned the Police for me and they said no problem just get one from the next petrol station in Gura Humourului and get on your way again. Thundering now, the Dutch settling in and its 3pm, colder too. I've also just found out that there is internet in the house, but it's only cable, no wifi, so probably wont bother. Just hope this rain goes away quickly.

Tuesday 17th May 2011 Computer problems today. Cristiana's internet wasn't working properly, so she called in her local expert. In no time it was sorted. However my note writing programme crashed! Had a good evening with the Dutch reps from ACSI and their husbands, also Cristiana and her husband; me, I am now one of the family! We were drinking what we think was home-made liqueur from blueberries. Don't know the name, can't get used to their language my ears don't pick it up too well, or any language come to that! Had to have dinner and it was getting cold, so I left the others enjoying themselves.

Wednesday 18th May 2011 The programme that crashed yesterday when downloading some updates was about to be fixed. Got up early this morning and went over to the house to sort it out on the internet; re-installed my programme and found it was now all OK and then got back into bed and slept till 9am. The others were leaving too, we all said our goodbyes and went straight to get my Rovinette at the garage. Well the young lady attendant wanted me to pay 65 Lei for being over 3.5t. I explained I wasn't because I was only allowed to go up to 3.5t. The girl said “you are a big vehicle and you do many miles.” Obviously she didn't get the weight proviso for the Rovinette. However, I stuck it out and paid 23.45 Lei for 7 days, which will get me to the border. Filled up with diesel too.

Varonet

The Outside Walls, Varonet

Dragonmire

Went down to the Vononet Monastery to start with, it wasn't very far down the road. 3L entrance and it was quite splendid, but very dark inside due to the dark background paintings and high up into the ceiling. Wanted to charge 6L for photos and 10L for videos when taking the outside of the building. Of course, as usual you were not allowed to take photos inside. 

Dragonmiri

Leaving here I travelled to Dragonmiri. As the Dutch couple said it was all screened off, and they were not wrong! I walked in to the first hall where there were 3 clergy and a nun in deep discussion. She walked out, so did the others, leaving me to have a look at the non existent emptiness of the church. Well the UNESCO money was definitely being put to good use, however I wasn't going to contribute to seeing nothing, so I left. Couldn't see the lake that is in the book either. Brand new copper tiles were being fitted to the roof and bell tower, was it originally like this?

On to the next one. To Sucevita, well, TT wanted to go one way and perhaps I should have followed it. However, I turned at a sign and went to a town, turned left and there was a funeral procession in front of me which I obviously couldn't upset, so decided to reroute; TT was being awkward and told me to go back where I'd come from. Off I went, looked at the map and chose to go round the long way; I'm glad I did, very pretty and eventually came to Sucevita. This monastery was very large with perimeter fortifications. Again there were renovations going on, but at least you could see more. The paintings inside were quite magnificent, not by the artist at Humorului, and I would say they were not so old. The alter was overflowing with gilt or gold, I don't know which, but quite overpowering.

Moldivita

Again the usual taxes for taking photos, so I didn't bother. There were lots of nuns busying themselves with the garden and the ivy growing on the walls. Had to pay 4L for the car park to a young lad who understood English, however, when I left I couldn't see him; yet the tickets were printed with the monastery name. As I was about to leave a policeman stepped forward, hailed me to stop and asked to see my papers. This is the 3rd or 4th time in Romania! No problems, have a nice day!
The last one at Moldavita, I didn't have to pay anything, there were two groups French and young children. Again the nuns were gardening and telling the children about the place. The base of the church was being waterproofed as you could see from the plaster some considerable damage had occurred. Inside too, the front portion had been completed re-plastered to about 4 ft high and was still requiring the finishing touch. Again the paintings were wonderful. The front chapel again had paintings of martyrs in various forms of demise. The second chapel contained a door for a staircase and a small chapel containing a sarcophagus, of whom, I don't know. The alter again was very splendid, don't envy anyone who dusted it, if ever!

Leaving here I decided to go back to Cristiana's as it was only 40k away, the nearest site I knew; again I was welcomed with open arms, “You are my friend. I'm expecting 5 other Germans so please park where you originally went.” They did arrive later in dribs and drabs. I found out Cristiana's birthday was 3rd June and established she was a Gemini and she certainly had energy, little bombshell. You could hear her change the tone of her voice if she disagreed with whom ever! “You go for shower in the house,” she said, “not the others.” Once I'd had dinner, only having driven 140 miles? I was ready for bed early, had a splitting headache, probably over this computer!

Thursday 19th May and Friday 20th May 2011 Sighisoara

I woke earlier this morning, headache free to start writing up again. Now time for breakfast. Was misty, now it's lifting. Headed towards Brasov and Bran to go to Dracula's Castle. However, it appeared that this was certainly a popular place, took one look at the crowds and kept going towards Sighisoara. The road down wasn't too bad, very picturesque. I was getting used to the drivers now and the speed limits. Found camp site in Sighisoara, Aquarius Camping N46-13-24 E24-47-45; a little old lady in reception didn't understand until she saw the motorhome. However, an old guy came out and and showed me to my place. He said it was 40 Lei which I then worked out at €10 with electricity, which was very good. Big manhole cover (very heavy) for WC and primitive washing up place, but very good showering facilities.

Entrance to Church on the Hill

Had a good night and went to the bank in the morning across the bridge, visited the Basilica on way back. Gypsies begging on the bridge with small bare child in this raging sunshine! Bought some small doughnuts for 2L and went back and changed into some sensible shoes, quickly read up Lonely Planet and went back to find the way to the upper town and citadel, now a World Heritage site. Small sign on a corner of an alleyway said “Historic Monument”, so I went up it. And, yes it lead me straight up! Got to the main entrance to be surrounded by teenagers making quite a hubbub. Press on, walked around the ramparts and then found the 172 stepped covered staircase which lead up to The Church on the Hill.

Well, it took a while but I got there and glad I made the effort. Great guide, spoke very good English and we learnt a great deal. The Church probably built about 1300, documented from 1450 but others thought it older. Initially there were no frescoes because it started off as Catholic, then went to Lutheran when they whitewashed the walls, so as not to offend Catholics. In recent renovations they found the frescoes again. Two were of St George and the Dragon, George leading the Dragon on a leash! The story goes that he stunned the dragon with his spear, subduing the dragon, put his belt around it's neck and lead it home. There is a story about St George being imprisoned in Beirut by a huge lake! The ruler's wife pleaded for his release. He was advised to do this, the ruler decided he would, but obviously thinking there was something else going on, beheaded both St George and the wife. The guide asked where I was from “London” and he said “My favourite place is St James' park, 3rd bench on the left as you go in the entrance.” So that's why he spoke English so well. Another snippet I picked up was that Jesus' grandmother was St Ann, who apparently was married 3 times, each of her husband's died.

I met an American lady there, who said she was here with her husband and their adopted son. She explained they had come over 20 years ago and adopted him. He was a tall young dark skinned lad, definitely clothed and talked like an American, but with Romanian features. He had visited his birth mother on this trip and everything had run very smoothly. She explained she had two natural daughters and everybody got on very well. Having visited the one church I then went in the other and there were lots of Anatolian (Turkish) rugs on the walls dating from the 14^th century. Photographed the main gate, decided not to do the museums and walked back down into the main shopping area of the town. No really big shops, so plumbed for a small one with some salad stuff all for about 10L. Carrier bag 1L. Getting hot outside again, so went down to the next bridge, along the river embankment and back to the camp ground.

Spent time computing, very good wifi signal got up to date banking done. Bought 300 Lei and 200 Euros for 1,134 Lei. so that's 734 for 200, actually he's given me 300 Euros. So I think about £247 will check out website.

Ceausesco's Palace of the People

Saturday and Sunday, 21^st 22^nd May, 2011 Bucharest

Found the camp site from some notes picked up at http:/www.magbaztravels site on the internet. At Banesa Camping in N44-31-01 E26-05-33 in Bucharest now, lots of Dutch here when I first arrived and I had the last pitch; was wasn't more than a scrappy bit of dirt, did have electricity and they had the cheek to charge me 80 Lei a night, which was exorbitant, but the only camp . Bought bus tickets for 2.30 Lei each, so I could go from stop to stop. The bus stop was just to the left of the road you came down to the site. Firstly I went by bus and then Metro to Piata Unirii to walk to Ceausesci's Palace of Parliament, which is huge and apparently the worlds 2nd largest administrative building (after Pentagon); looking at the outside was enough for me, 12 stories high, 3100 rooms, and apparently not yet finished!  

Wooden tiled Church

One of the main squares in Bucharest

From there to a small Orthodox church in the back street, painted everywhere inside with frescoes, and full 'cos it's Sunday. I managed to find the Orthodox Cathedral, which you couldn't even get in because people were standing outside listening. It's very hot over 25C, walked further to the Metro to get a bus for the Muszeul Satului, National Village Museum; a park filled with different types of historical/cultural buildings redeployed in this delightful setting beside a lake. However, it was more like a glorified craft market, with some crafts being demonstrated and there was a very interesting concert going on with singers dressed in their particular mode of costume. Some of the bead work and embroidery were really good, unfortunately, I couldn't buy anything, there's too much stuff in my van anyway.

On my way home I thought I had got on the right bus, however, this one stopped at the local shopping Mall. Through hand signals and showing them the map of where the camp site was, we managed to work out that I was quite near the correct bus stop. The bus driver spoke with another and I was gently directed to the front of the bus next to the driver. What was going on. Well I soon found out, he actually took me to a spot very near the correct bus stop, stopped, let me get off, “Many thanks, goodbye” from both of us. I was on the right path again. Moving across to Bulgaria tomorrow, got to work out where I'm staying there. Just before going to bed one of the Dutch residents said “your tyre looks at bit low” and sure enough one of them was. Would pump that up in the morning.