Monday 11th July 2011
Next morning decided to go to Aphrodisias, Pamukkale, Hieropolis.
Everything started off fine, until I hit the roadworks, again. And
the tar on the road. Hells Bells, just cleaned my van, now I'm
getting more on it. Got some diesel at 36104, they wanted me to wash
my van. No thanks, just wasn't going to do it until I got home. Too
much trouble and it would only get dirty yet again! A lady attendant
understood, the old gentleman in the office, sprayed me with a lovely
lemon scent, did I smell? No just to cool me down. Thanks very much!
I looked at the bottle it was from the 
Acpet chain of petrol
stations, just a lemon spray. Haven't found one of them yet, but will
keep a lookout. Got to Aphrodisias, couldn't park near the Jardarma,
had to go back up the road and pay 10TL in a car park there. A
tractor towed trailer gave me a very bumpy ride to the ruins. Again
it was very hot, but there was a lot there to look at, another
Theatre, suitable stadium very well preserved, many reed beds, and
I'm sure there were springs in these beds because they were so green.
The one thing that impressed me was the Athena Gate apparently an
earthquake had demolished it, 
but left most intact, that was how they
managed to renovate it. It was really magnificent. This gate was in a
lovely well watered field and over to the right I could see a modern
grave. It belonged to Kenant T Erim.The official archaeologist from
Istanbul who had given over 30 years of his life to this particular
site and this was a lovely tribute to him. I found his information
inside the Museum, right in the entrance way. The museum was
marvellous, many statues, they were good whoever did them, and nearly
2000 years old. Pity the ancient Christians decided to deface all the
faces, what a real shame. After a long hard day at the ruins I found
the café, had another choc Magnum and a Sprite 8.50 TL but I was
thirsty and hungry! I got the bumpy trailer ride back to the van and
set off to Pamukkale.
TT
did a good job until it sent me down a dirt track beside a man-made
canal carrying water from somewhere, probably Pamukkale. I got there
in the end. I could see the white cliffs as I headed towards the
site, lots of traffic too. Was waved down at Baydil camping/caravan
site (N37-55-05 E29-07-16 by a gentleman who just wouldn't tell me
how much it was. Finally, “30TL”, “I'm on my own”, “OK 25
TL”, “Thanks very much” and pulled into the camp. There were 3
other vans there Dutch I think, didn't really take much notice
because I was tired. They left the next morning before I even had
time to get dressed and out for the day.
Tuesday, 12th July
2011 Visited Pamukkale, knew I had to walk a long way today, so
plimsolls on and I would have to take them off and carry them as I
walked up the hill through the water. The site fee was 20TL, most
expensive since Istanbul. Never mind this was so different. Had to
wear my sunglasses as the glare from the travertines was amazing. The
water was cool, except in the bigger pools. Fortunately the tourists
hadn't arrived on mass yet as it was only 8.30 I took a long time
walking up making sure that I didn't slip on some of the green bits,
and where the water had run too fast there were gravel patches which
were quite sharp on the old feet. It was amazing, never been anywhere
like this before. When I got to the top I put my shoes back on and
started to walk to my right towards the south gate. This concluded
the travertines which was quite some distance. I then started to walk
through the ruins, but quickly made my way up, and up, to the
Theatre. As usual, very big, in quite a good state of repair, but a
lot of renovation going on at the stage. There was only one tree for
shade and everybody was under it. The Japanese ladies don't like
getting the sun, or the men for that matter, they wear special white
armlets that cover their skin. Then you have the exhibitionist in
their bikinis, thin and very large! Couldn't quite believe some of
the bodies, that were letting it all hang out, fat mostly! A couple of single ladies
asked me to take photos, I must look the friendly type, glad they
asked me, but as usual I didn't let them take one of me. Kept walking
down towards the
Ancient baths to see what's what. The price to swim
was 25TL well, a bit naughty, you can go down the bottom and have it
for free, just outside the complex! Not quite as glamorous though. I
had a chicken kebab, very nice, if a bit expensive, well not really
8.50TL about the same as home. The drinks at 5TL were expensive
though! I decided to continue along the gardens and look at the
travertines from the other end, it was absolutely amazing. They were
drying off some of the sections, and other sections, man made pools
in the gardens were a bit stagnant and looked disgusting. However,
lots of gardeners there, not all managing to keep up with all the
maintenance though. I decided to cross over after the tomb in the
travertine, looked as though it was in a snow field and look at the
rest of the ruins. This end, if you parked at the Northern Gate
N37-56-27 E29-07-00 you had a long walk to start
off with, then
through the ruins which were again completely amazing and a long walk
to get to the public walks in the travertines. One of the best things
was the building of the Latrine. It was quite something. It was also
explained that the pavement had once been covered by metres of
travertine substance and which had to be jack hammered off before
they could get to the actual pavement. Again, so much work before
this finished result. I would have liked to have seen it a bit more
tidy, but the gardeners were strimming some of the grass, and of
course it was hot too, nobody can work in that heat, must have been
40+C. It was bad enough just walking and looking. Back at the board
walk again and then down the slope to the exit. Loads of people this
time and it was a bit tricky trying to go down without slipping over
the edge, but yet again I got there safe and sound. I decided to have
dinner in the café that night. There were lamb chops on the menu. I
asked 
what was with them and Mustafa said chips and salad. This was
put down as 1 portion of each and that is exactly what I got, and had
to pay for it, but the plate with the chops actually came with a few
chips and salad, but I got a double helping. These language
difficulties - cost me 10TL extra! Not really what I wanted, couldn't
eat the chips, but the salad minus the green peppers was scrummy. I
did get an apple tea for free to make up for it.
Wednesday, 13th July
2011 Got up reasonably early again to do my washing. Nobody else
around I thought, however Mustafa was. Helped me load my washing,
wish he hadn't, it then took 2 hrs to complete, don't know why so
long. The hand towels I'd washed by hand and rung out were dry by the
time I took the rest of the wash out of the machine. Could have saved
myself another 10TL, never mind. Had a day of typing up my notes,
still doing it at 9.10pm. but coming to an end now. Decided to go to
Bodram tomorrow, find a camp site and then get the bus in hopefully
on Friday, as things were shut Saturday, Sunday and Monday. Right day
to go. Mustafa wanted me to stay yet another day, just couldn't take
that! Some Italians arrived, why do they have to shout, they parked
so close to me and were shouting at their friends who had parked over
by the trees. Happily they went over next to them and left me in
peace. All I could hear was Mustafa calling "Darling, Darling"
well, I ignored him.
Thursday,
14th July 2011 Got up bright and early Mustafa was about, I paid
my bill of 25TL a night plus 10TL, I said his brother had agreed to
that price at the gate when I arrived. His brother was fast asleep on
the sofa in the large lounge, heavy night! His young son, the one who
left skid marks with his electric scooter all over the lounge floor
was nowhere to be seen. I was going to suggest he picked up the
rubbish in the car park below, just to give him something more
constructive to do, rather than fill his already stout belly with
more ice creams etc. and leave tyre rubber on the floor for someone
else to clean off! So I was on my way, through Denizli and down the
E87 road to where I had turned off at Kale, silly TT again. If you
tell it fastest route, it takes you by that, regardless of where it
takes you, but that doesn't always apply. (Karatepe!) It was quite a
good road, until further roadworks started again. Got to Yatagan and
found a Fiat Dealer and asked to buy a 40 amp fuse which cost me
10TL. I was spoken to by a very English voice, who spoke perfect
Turkish as well. He made no comment about my statement, just said he
had brought the service technician who would find out if this is what
I wanted. I just wanted to buy the fuse, thank you very much. When I
was sure that it wasn't the fuse, then I would make other enquiries.
I thanked them and left. I got to Bodrum, very lovely road entering,
saw the castle, made for it, obviously couldn't park anywhere. Kept
going out to the harbour, found a cash machine, as I realised having
bought all those groceries that I didn't have any money. The road
inevitably ended in a hotel complex I had to reverse up hill, which
wasn't easy, a lovely young man opened his barrier to let me reverse
into so that I didn't have to go totally backwards up the hill.
I found a lovely place to
park overlooking the sea, was getting comfortable when there was
someone honking their horn quite profusely, just didn't stop, started
singing, making overtures to a parked van, well, did I need this,
certainly not! I prepared to leave. I thought I might just try and
find the camp site, which didn't happen, too many narrow roads to go
down, so I launched myself in the direction of Didim, for the Temple
of Apollo. The main carpark N37-23-06 E27-15-14.
I obviously arrived quite
late, parked up, and walked round to the temple. The ticket office
was closed, and there were lots of people going in to have a look so,
I joined them. It was amazing. Huge pillars, the most spectacular I'd
seen up until now. The main hall was also huge, with tunnels taking
you down into the hall, or main temple. You really have to look
around you and stare in awe. How did this ancient people do it. With
just a lot of ancient people to help them, I suppose. How did they
build the pillars with so many pieces of stone, one on top of the
other, they were huge. Whilst I walked around I came to the rear of
the temple and one of the huge pillars had toppled and they had been
propped up when they fell, I thought this was an excellent way of
showing the toppled pillar. I kept going around the temple, still day
dreaming about its size. Walked back to the van and tried to find the
camping place at Altinkum Plaj. All I found was a car park where I
could turn round. As it was getting really late by then I decided to
go back to the car park at the Apollo Temple, by the café and stay
the night. When I got there, I got a surprise, the car park was
practically full, the café’s musicians were in full swing, and I
would have entertainment as I cooked my evening meal. The music
didn't stop until gone 12, and I was still awake, still awake at 3am
too. Must have been the Coke I had drunk, too much caffeine, hadn't
had Coke in a long while, and not as much as I had drunk. I finally
did get off to sleep, had a few hours and decided it was time to go
to Milet up the road.
Friday 15th July 2011 Knew by the time I got to Milet, N37-31-49 E27-16-25 still relatively early, that I wasn't feeling too good, very tired. Parked up in the Car park fortunately under a gum tree, paid my 3TL to enter and 2TL to park. Lots of people didn't pay either to park or enter. They parked their cars out the front away from the ticket office. The officers weren't the least bit perturbed, but the government/municipality certainly lost a lot of revenue that day, and most days because the ticket office bore no relation to where the public entered the site. Bad planning. The first thing you saw was the Theatre, again very large, in very good condition and you could quite easily climb up the steps and survey the inside tunnels
and
surrounding countryside. After this you walked up towards the flag to
look at the Byzantine remains of their castle. Walking across and
looking down you could see the entire site, which was massive as
usual and you could just make out the land masses which were once the
town and those which were once the sea, as this had been an open port
to the sea, through the river Menderes (Meanders). However the river
was not in the immediate vicinity any more. You could see the
spacious baths, the ceremonial road, etc. However something must have
flooded it recently because of all the flotsam that was laying around
and some very soggy parts in which cattle had wandered through at
some stage. I never did find out when it had last flooded. As usual
there were a few stray dogs around, one had a really good go at me, I
ignored it, as best I could and just walked away.
 |
| The Museum with very welcome air conditioning |
There
was another dozing in the shade, on the steps. I was now getting very
tired and tried to finish my visit pretty quickly and get back to the
van. Having got there and tried to sleep, the driver of the van next
door was trying to find out what was wrong with his electric sliding
door and it was going backwards and forwards incessantly! Was I going
to have a nap, No. There was also a stray dog looking sadly at me on
my doorstep. I gave him some water and bread. I had one tin of
sardines and he had that, very quickly. I decided to walk up towards
the museum, but I couldn't even see it, and my body told me it didn't
want to. So when I got back to the van I noticed the dog had taken up
residence just in front of my back wheels. When it was time to go,
just starting the engine didn't have any effect, I had to get out and
shoo him away. So, up the road to the Museum, it was further than I
thought. Parked the van outside the courtyard, it was easier and went
inside. 3TL to get in and the attendance gave me a book on Anding. It
was beautifully air conditioned inside. Marvellous. It was very
interesting too, I was engrossed; then my tummy told me I had to get
back to the van pretty quickly. I rushed out said I would be back
please, in a few moments and hoped he would understand. And so I was,
to finish up viewing artifacts from Priene and Apollo as well as
here. It was a good museum. I said goodbye, but forgot there was an
outside exhibition as well. There were a lot of other pieces of stone
masonry, statues, wine jars, mosaics in quite an unkempt piece of
courtyard. I did wonder sometimes if they just forgot about the
tidiness of this place, or just that there was no money to keep it
tidy?
 |
| Walking up to the site at Priene |
There was still time to
find Priene and Dogenbey, but I discovered I'd forgotten to fill up
with diesel and the warning light had come on. Another 10km further
on apparently. I did get there put in 100TL worth cos it was about
3,67TL which was expensive. I turned round and went back to Priene
N37-39-36 E27-18-03. Paid my 3TL to get in and 5TL to park! I took
my brolly, thinking it would keep the sun off me, but the wind got up
quite strongly and I had to use it to help me get up the hill. It was
quite a walk, all the time I was thinking, I should never have come
while it was so hot, everyone else comes in the months of March,
April, May when it's not so hot. I can never come again at this time.
I first of all did the Theatre, which was Hellenistic, small compared
to Milet, but built into the side of the mountain with the
mountain
soaring above it to the rear. Climbing up then looking down, it was
amazing that the front part, the stage, had held up so well. I didn't
go right to the top, couldn't summon the energy. Then there was the
Temple to Athena, again very big, huge columns right on the edge of
the highest tier of the plateau. Looking over the edge you could just
make out the Sacred Road which lead down to Milet and Didim, or was
it just a paved path and I made up the rest! There were various
structures, all quite intact, or renovated, enough to keep anyone
amused as they looked around. However, I was starting to flag again,
so even though I couldn't quite investigate the whole site, it was
time to go down and drive away, heading in the direction of Kusadasi
where I knew there was a camp site and then onto Ephases after a bit
of a rest.
Saturday, 16th July
2011 Yat Camping N37-52-05 E27-15-59. (Do not use the campsite
water to fill up here, and don't drink it. Buy bottled water.) Slept
a lot last night, but got up had breakfast and went back to sleep
again! I was pooped, not well at all. Did manage to get down to the
wifi and speak to the family for about 25minutes but I really wasn't
there 100%. Went back to van, still feeling quite nauseous and giddy,
Simon said I might be loosing too much body salt, he had a point
there, had never ever tasted so much salt on my lips if I licked
them!
Sunday 17th July 2011
Slept well again, but still feel grotty. Tried to get to the chemist,
they were shut; did find a grocery store for some water, the camp
site apparently didn't have drinking water. Decided yet again to have
an easy day. Met a Welsh lady walking back to the camp site who'd
suddenly developed onset of gout, so she couldn't walk far, and of
course couldn't find the emergency chemist either. She was going back
to UK tomorrow night so would get rescued at home. Whilst I've not
been well, I read the book about the area Aydin, and you could spend
a good few weeks visiting all the sites in the area. If the Turkish
government issue this book and for all the counties it would really
make some interesting reading and I would have to look into it just
in case I ever did come back at a more suitable time of the year!
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